Shirotaebashi: Limestone Beside the Nippara River | Japan Climbing Crags

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Shirotaebashi is a limestone sport crag beside the Nippara River in Okutama: a short approach does not imply easy climbing, and older access notices require fresh confirmation. This guide helps you decide whether it suits your team, when to visit and what to confirm about transport and the approach.

What kind of crag

The rock is limestone (crag description); the readable ROCKTOPO inventory has 67 graded entries. Its scope differs from a complete guidebook.

Shirotaebashi is a limestone sport crag beside the Nippara River in Okutama: a short approach does not imply easy climbing, and older access notices require fresh confirmation.

CLIMBING-net and ROCKTOPO have different inventory scopes. A database count does not establish that every route is currently accessible. Sectors remain within this destination; choose the day’s objective and descent before planning equipment.

When to go

CLIMBING-net lists year-round use with poor summer conditions. Main Wall and Dimple differ in sun and seepage; shaded winter rock is cold, making spring/autumn an easier starting point. A March 2026 report contrasts cold winter rock with longer spring sun, without guaranteeing post-rain dryness.

Getting there

Public transport

Take the JR Ome Line to Okutama, then a Nishi Tokyo Bus toward Nippara to Shirotaebashi. Check the operating-day timetable and keep the bus stop clear of equipment.

Driving

Drive along Nippara-kaido to Osawa and confirm current Shirotaebashi access/parking with the climbing centre before walking to the bridge. Disregard older English descriptions suggesting roadside pullouts.

Parking

The publisher directs parking arrangements through Tokyo Trout Country and prohibits roadside/bus-stop parking. Confirm whether climbing parking is accepted that day with the centre or facility; do not rely on old prices or sleep in the car park.

Rules before you go

The publisher page still carries an April 2007 self-restraint request concerning rubbish, abandoned gear, fires and parking. In October 2026 the Okutama centre points readers to the guidebook but gives no lifting date there; recent reports do not establish landowner permission. Before committing to a climbing day, confirm permitted sectors and parking with the centre; change venues if unconfirmed.

No fires, rubbish or unauthorized gear storage. Upper-sector approaches involve steep ground/fixed ropes; proximity to the road does not make this a beginner environment.

For a serious injury requiring medical help, call 119. The FDMA guide asks callers to give the location and landmarks. Save the local crag name, target sector and road access offline; ask your insurer whether the climbing style, search and rescue, treatment and repatriation are covered.

Routes by level

YDS and V-grade conversions follow the Mountain Project international grade comparison chart and are approximate; "approx." marks grades the sources give without a/b/c (such as 4 or 5+). The original grade is the one that counts.

The full graded ROCKTOPO table contributes 67 entries, supplemented by the linked public topo/MP rows. Original YDS or Japanese grades are retained; unlisted lengths/pitches remain unspecified. Obtain the current topo for descent and protection. Names shared by different sectors/grades remain separate. A listed route is not a current-access recommendation.

Beginner: up to 6a (YDS 5.10a and below)

Check protection style and the start even on lower grades; a low number does not make a first outdoor lead appropriate.

Route	Grade	YDS	Length / pitches	Sector	Notes
「ビューティペア」	5.9	5.9	Not listed	カワラ・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ダーティペア」	5.10a	5.10a	Not listed	カワラ・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「消費税」	5.10a	5.10a	Not listed	ディンプル・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ホトトギス」	5.9	5.9	Not listed	バルコニー・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「苔ケッコー」	5.9	5.9	Not listed	バルコニー・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「北風」	5.8	5.8	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「カーチェイス」	5.10a	5.10a	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「藤のカンテ」	5.10a	5.10a	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。

Intermediate: 6a+ to 6c+ (YDS 5.10b–5.11c)

Distinguish face, crack and multipitch routes within this range. Choose a sector cluster and check the day’s rock conditions.

Route	Grade	YDS	Length / pitches	Sector	Notes
「力石」	5.11a	5.11a	Not listed	カワラ・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「あしたのジョー」	5.11a	5.11a	Not listed	カワラ・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「チビ丸子ちゃん」	5.11b	5.11b	Not listed	カワラ・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「日原レイバック」	5.10b	5.10b	Not listed	アイビー・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「おしゃべりマン」	5.10c	5.10c	Not listed	アイビー・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「花の奥多摩音頭」	5.10c	5.10c	Not listed	アイビー・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ブラックキャット」	5.10d	5.10d	Not listed	アイビー・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「百万本のバラ」	5.11b	5.11b	Not listed	アイビー・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ウェルカム・トゥ・白妙」	5.11b	5.11b	Not listed	アイビー・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「デビルマン」	5.11b	5.11b	Not listed	アイビー・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ターザン」	5.11b	5.11b	Not listed	アイビー・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ホワイトデイ」	5.11c	5.11c	Not listed	アイビー・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「大和撫子七変化」	5.11c	5.11c	Not listed	アイビー・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「バースデイに乾杯」	5.10b	5.10b	Not listed	ディンプル・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「春の雪」	5.10b	5.10b	Not listed	ディンプル・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「バースデイプレゼント」	5.10d	5.10d	Not listed	ディンプル・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「エテ公」	5.11b	5.11b	Not listed	ディンプル・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ディンプル」	5.11b	5.11b	Not listed	ディンプル・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「スーパーディンプル」	5.11c	5.11c	Not listed	ディンプル・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「クロコダイル」	5.11c	5.11c	Not listed	ディンプル・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「バルコニー」	5.10c	5.10c	Not listed	バルコニー・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「目に青葉」	5.11a/b	5.11a/b	Not listed	バルコニー・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「奥多摩ラプソディー」	5.11c	5.11c	Not listed	バルコニー・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「お豆ちゃん」	5.10c	5.10c	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「旅立ち」	5.10c	5.10c	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ズブロッカを貴方に」	5.10d	5.10d	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「電脳空間」	5.11a	5.11a	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ナイトライダー」	5.11a	5.11a	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「引き立て役」	5.11b	5.11b	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「吉野街道」	5.11b	5.11b	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO、Source。 Face route。 A March 2026 report describes repeated work between bolts 2–3; a 2019 visitor changed routes because of wet tufas.
「多摩川の流れは絶えずして」	5.10b/c (hardest)	5.10b/c (hardest)	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Multipitch。
「新たなる旅立ちのために」	5.11b/c (hardest)	5.11b/c (hardest)	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Multipitch。

Advanced: 7a to 7c+ (YDS 5.11d–5.13a)

Near your limit, establish descent, cleaning and retreat options first. A trip report describes its author’s visit.

Route	Grade	YDS	Length / pitches	Sector	Notes
「ケンシロー」	5.11d	5.11d	Not listed	カワラ・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「たわごと」	5.11d	5.11d	Not listed	アイビー・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「絶望のシャングリラ」	5.12a	5.12a	Not listed	アイビー・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「アフロディーチ」	5.12a	5.12a	Not listed	アイビー・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「没個性」	5.12a	5.12a	Not listed	アイビー・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「天使の梯子」	5.12a	5.12a	Not listed	アイビー・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「アイビー」	5.12a	5.12a	Not listed	アイビー・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ヘラクレス」	5.12b	5.12b	Not listed	アイビー・フェイス	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「モマ」	5.11d	5.11d	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「新青梅怪童」	5.11d	5.11d	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「エステ」	5.12a	5.12a	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ウッシーⅠ」	5.12a	5.12a	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ブラックマーケット」	5.12a	5.12a	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO、Source。 Face route。 A 2014 retailer report gives three stars and notes an exposed fixed-rope approach.
「ボディマシーン」	5.12a	5.12a	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ウォー」	5.12a	5.12a	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO、Record。 Face route。 Online record: report, A 2019 report describes the opening tufas, cold rock and four attempts that day.
「ナビ」	5.12b	5.12b	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ゴッデム」	5.12b	5.12b	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ジャンヌ・ダルク」	5.12b	5.12b	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「プリンシー」	5.12b	5.12b	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ラスト・ワン」	5.12c	5.12c	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ジャングルジム」	5.12d	5.12d	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ザ・サミット」	5.13a	5.13a	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「コンドル」	5.13a	5.13a	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。

Expert: 8a and up (YDS 5.13b and up)

Allow separate project time for harder lines. A database entry does not certify a finished route or inspected protection.

Route	Grade	YDS	Length / pitches	Sector	Notes
「壁面上のアリア」	5.13b	5.13b	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ガガンボ」	5.13b	5.13b	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「プリンス・リーヘイリー」	5.13c/d	5.13c/d	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「黒蜥蜴」	5.14b	5.14b	Not listed	正面壁	Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。

Where to look things up

• CLIMBING-net: crag background, seasons and guidebook entry point.
• ROCKTOPO: Japanese names, sectors and original grades.
• Okutama Climbing Centre: Local centre lists Shirotae among guidebook areas; public page does not explicitly resolve the historical self-restraint notice.
• Nishi Tokyo Bus: Official Nippara-area bus timetable portal.

Guidebooks: Grades and route counts here come mainly from online databases; the guidebook is the authority.

• Free Climbing Japan 100 Crags, volume 2: Makoto Kitayama, Yama-kei, 2019 expanded revised edition, Kanto, adding Gozen Iwa routes, Japanese. The publisher listing establishes edition and regional coverage. The paid interior topo was not accessed; older rules do not supersede current notices.

References

• CLIMBING-net: Shirotaebashi
• ROCKTOPO: Shirotaebashi
• ROCKTOPO: route inventory
• Yama-kei: guidebook
• Okutama Climbing Centre
• Nishi Tokyo Bus
• Climbing record / local recommendation
• Climbing record / local recommendation
• Climbing record / local recommendation
• FDMA: ambulance services
• Mountain Project: international climbing grades