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Tachiokayama combines powerful sport climbing at Koyama Rock with a multipitch left ridge, requiring different equipment and skills. This guide helps you decide whether it suits your team, when to visit and what to confirm about transport and the approach.
What kind of crag
The rock is andesite (crag description); the readable ROCKTOPO inventory has 70 graded entries. Its scope differs from a complete guidebook.
Tachiokayama combines powerful sport climbing at Koyama Rock with a multipitch left ridge, requiring different equipment and skills.
CLIMBING-net and ROCKTOPO have different inventory scopes. A database count does not establish that every route is currently accessible. Sectors remain within this destination; choose the day’s objective and descent before planning equipment.
When to go
ROCKTOPO lists April–June and September–November; the publisher notes midsummer heat. Start with spring/autumn, and check ice and approach conditions in winter. An exposed ridge differs from the wooded sport sector.
Getting there
Public transport
Kai municipal buses, Shikishima North Line toward Shimoashizawa, have limited Monday/Tuesday/Thursday/Friday service in the 2026 timetable. Arrival from Ryuo is late for a full climbing day: prefer a booked pickup or rental and arrange the return.
Driving
Kai City provides trailhead and parking maps. Navigate to Kamifukuzawa, then follow the topo for Koyama Rock or the left ridge rather than navigating to summit coordinates.
Parking
Kai City’s 2026 page lists two parking areas; the second can be located at535-1Kamifukuzawa. Roadside and unauthorized private parking are prohibited. The hiking toilet is at the fire/community centre at543Kamifukuzawa.
Rules before you go
The city’s “no abnormality” statement concerns the hiking trail, not climbing anchors or the left ridge. Prepare protection, route finding and descent independently; a hardest grade of 5.9 does not make the ridge beginner sport.
Plan Koyama Rock’s powerful moves separately from a ridge day, and consider rockfall and belayer positions when sharing the cliff.
For a serious injury requiring medical help, call 119. The FDMA guide asks callers to give the location and landmarks. Save the local crag name, target sector and road access offline; ask your insurer whether the climbing style, search and rescue, treatment and repatriation are covered.
Routes by level
YDS and V-grade conversions follow the Mountain Project international grade comparison chart and are approximate; "approx." marks grades the sources give without a/b/c (such as 4 or 5+). The original grade is the one that counts.
The full graded ROCKTOPO table contributes 70 entries, supplemented by the linked public topo/MP rows. Original YDS or Japanese grades are retained; unlisted lengths/pitches remain unspecified. Obtain the current topo for descent and protection. Names shared by different sectors/grades remain separate. A listed route is not a current-access recommendation.
Beginner: up to 6a (YDS 5.10a and below)
Check protection style and the start even on lower grades; a low number does not make a first outdoor lead appropriate.
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 「頑張れチーチャン」 | 5.8 | 5.8 | Not listed | マランボウロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「太刀岡三手」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | マランボウロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「新人さんいらっしゃい」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | 下部岩壁メインエリア | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「クンクン」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 下部岩壁メインエリア | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「これでもか」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 下部岩壁メインエリア | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「阿行小」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 下部岩壁メインエリア | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「モンキーブレイン」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 右岩壁上部 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「父の優しさ」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | 右岩壁下部 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「太刀岡健康ランド」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 右岩壁下部 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「太刀岡山左岩稜」 | 5.9 (hardest) | 5.9 (hardest) | Not listed | 太刀岡山左岩稜 | Sources: ROCKTOPO、Source、Record。 Multipitch。 theCrag lists2 stars,230m/9 pitches; a 2024 report describes retreat after inadequate first-pitch protection sizes. Online record: report, A 2024 report illustrates how crack skills and protection range change the first pitch. |
| 「君の瞳に乾杯」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「義理チョコ」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
Intermediate: 6a+ to 6c+ (YDS 5.10b–5.11c)
Distinguish face, crack and multipitch routes within this range. Choose a sector cluster and check the day’s rock conditions.
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 「小番THEシャーク」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | シャークロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「行け行くんだそのガバに」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | シャークロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「I’mバッツォー」 | 5.11c | 5.11c | Not listed | シャークロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ニヒル・ザ・シャーク」 | 5.11c | 5.11c | Not listed | シャークロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「Leマランボウ」 | 5.10d | 5.10d | Not listed | マランボウロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「大ちゃん」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | 下部岩壁メインエリア | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「NEO新人さんいらっしゃい」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | 下部岩壁メインエリア | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「行けイノシシ」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 下部岩壁メインエリア | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「サイドワインダー」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 下部岩壁メインエリア | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「パクリ屋」 | 5.10d | 5.10d | Not listed | 下部岩壁メインエリア | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ビッグバード」 | 5.10d | 5.10d | Not listed | 下部岩壁メインエリア | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「やめるじゃやめろ」 | 5.10d | 5.10d | Not listed | 下部岩壁メインエリア | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「カバチ」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | 下部岩壁メインエリア | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「太刀」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | 下部岩壁メインエリア | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ノット・アーティフィシャル」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | 下部岩壁メインエリア | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「荻さん」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 右岩壁上部 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「空へ」 | 5.10d | 5.10d | Not listed | 右岩壁上部 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「真夜中のラブコール」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | 右岩壁下部 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「???」 | 5.11c | 5.11c | Not listed | 右岩壁下部 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「人間地獄」 | 5.11c | 5.11c | Not listed | アリ地獄エリア | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「バーボンを片手に」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「チェリーブロッサム」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ヤバイから逃げます」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ヴァレンタイン・イヴ」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「Perhaps Love」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「友情の印」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「詫び状」 | 5.10d | 5.10d | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「モダン3D」 | 5.10d | 5.10d | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「太陽が恋しい」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ハッピーバースデイ」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「山笑う」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「北風小僧」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ルートキラー」 | 5.11c | 5.11c | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「陽の当たらない坂道」 | 5.11c | 5.11c | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ヤバイ！」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「ツイスト・アンギュレーション」 | 5.11c | 5.11c | Not listed | ハサミ岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
Advanced: 7a to 7c+ (YDS 5.11d–5.13a)
Near your limit, establish descent, cleaning and retreat options first. A trip report describes its author’s visit.
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 「スタイルは良いのだけど」 | 5.11d | 5.11d | Not listed | 下部岩壁メインエリア | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ステミュラント」 | 5.12a | 5.12a | Not listed | 下部岩壁メインエリア | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「モアイ」 | 5.12b | 5.12b | Not listed | 下部岩壁メインエリア | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「朱夏」 | 5.12c | 5.12c | Not listed | 下部岩壁メインエリア | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「エトバスノイエスⅡ」 | 5.12b | 5.12b | Not listed | 右岩壁下部 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ヘルター・スケルター」 | 5.12c | 5.12c | Not listed | アリ地獄エリア | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「パンクス・イン・ザ・ダーク」 | 5.11d | 5.11d | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「夢をあきらめないで」 | 5.11d | 5.11d | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「GO ON THE BOLT」 | 5.11d | 5.11d | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「岩に描いたラブレター」 | 5.11d | 5.11d | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「カム・オン」 | 5.11d | 5.11d | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO、Record。 Face route。 Online record: report, A 2020 report describes a powerful bouldery start; assess lower protection and retreat. |
| 「おさわがせしました」 | 5.12a | 5.12a | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO、Record。 Face route。 Online record: report, A 2020 report gives5.11d/12a and discusses a traverse, heel hook and reach dependence. |
| 「ミストラル」 | 5.12a | 5.12a | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「太刀岡山心中」 | 5.12c | 5.12c | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「一瞬の静寂」 | 5.12c | 5.12c | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「うおりゃー」 | 5.12c | 5.12c | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「スーパーラット」 | 5.12c | 5.12c | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「VOGEL」 | 5.12c | 5.12c | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「カリスマ」 | 5.13a | 5.13a | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「テレフリック」 | 5.11d | 5.11d | Not listed | ハサミ岩 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
Expert: 8a and up (YDS 5.13b and up)
Allow separate project time for harder lines. A database entry does not certify a finished route or inspected protection.
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 「Get a lobster」 | 5.13b | 5.13b | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「スティングレイ」 | 5.13b | 5.13b | Not listed | 小山ロック | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
Where to look things up
- CLIMBING-net: crag background, seasons and guidebook entry point.
- ROCKTOPO: Japanese names, sectors and original grades.
- Kai City: 2026-03-10 update lists two parking areas, no roadside/private parking, and toilet at community fire centre.
- Yamanashi hiking portal: Official hiking portal describes bus access from Ryuo toward Shimoashizawa; summit times not cliff approach times.
Guidebooks: Grades and route counts here come mainly from online databases; the guidebook is the authority.
- Free Climbing Japan 100 Crags, volume 3: Makoto Kitayama, Yama-kei, expanded revised edition, 2016 e-book release, Izu/Koshin, Japanese. The publisher listing establishes edition and regional coverage. The paid interior topo was not accessed; older rules do not supersede current notices.
References
- CLIMBING-net: Tachiookayama
- ROCKTOPO: Tachiookayama
- ROCKTOPO: route inventory
- Yama-kei: guidebook
- Kai City
- Yamanashi hiking portal
- Kai municipal bus 2026
- Climbing record / local recommendation
- Climbing record / local recommendation
- Climbing record / local recommendation
- FDMA: ambulance services
- Mountain Project: international climbing grades