Skip to content
All categories

climbing

269 posts

Rent or Buy: The Order to Buy Climbing Gear, and How to Read CE, UIAA and Manufacture Dates on Labels

Buy in the order you'll use things: shoes first (you need them in the gym, and fit and hygiene depend on having your own), then a harness, belay device and locking carabiner once you top-rope regularly, and a helmet, rope and quickdraws when you head outdoors; a prusik cord once you rappel on your own outdoors, and nuts and cams once you start trad (most multi-pitch routes at Longdong are trad, so trad comes first). Climbing shoes are not PPE and have no safety standard; harnesses, helmets, ropes, carabiners and belay devices are, so look for the CE mark or UIAA Safety Label, then the year of manufacture. The UIAA's 2026 buying advice says plainly that harnesses, helmets and ropes should not be acquired second-hand.

Inspecting, Caring For and Retiring Climbing Gear: What a Manufacturer's 10 Years Means, and When to Retire Immediately

A manufacturer's 10 years is a maximum lifetime: the most a product can last stored well and never damaged. How long you can actually use it is its service life, which depends on wear and is usually shorter. BD says a harness in normal use lasts about three years; the manufacturer table DAV reprints says a rope used weekly lasts at most a year, while Edelrid says a frequently fallen-on rope should be downgraded to top-rope use after a year. Retire immediately after acid contact, a visible core, a major fall, or when you don't know the history. For dropped carabiners, DAV says a drop doesn't create hairline cracks, while BD and Petzl say retire when in doubt; both views are presented side by side. Judge by inspection, not by age.

Gym Safety, Waivers and Insurance: Does the Form You Sign Hold Up, Who Is Liable, and How to Judge a Gym's Safety

In Taiwan, Article 10-1 of the Consumer Protection Act says a business cannot limit or waive in advance its liability for the safety of its services, so a waiver clause saying 'all consequences are my own responsibility' is void. Your own negligence can still reduce what you're awarded. A gym's public liability insurance only pays once the gym is found legally liable; if you want cover whenever you get hurt, buy your own policy. Taipei's mandatory-insurance annex does not list 'climbing gym' by name; whether it applies is up to the city government.

Why Lead Feels Scarier Than Top-Rope: What the Research Shows, and Whether You Fear Falling or Failing

Two experiments with intermediate climbers found more anxiety, less confidence and less fluent movement on lead than on top-rope. In a Polish sample of 100 gym climbers, nearly half scored high for anxiety on lead. One study of 21 advanced climbers and one of 19 intermediates found no difference. First work out whether you fear the fall itself or failing and being watched: read post 1 on fall practice for the first, posts 2 and 3 for the second.

Climbing Partners and Gym Culture: Where to Find One, How to Try Out a New Partner, and When to Speak Up

Most people meet their climbing partners in person; in Taiwan the usual routes are gym meetups, LINE groups and university clubs. For a first session with a new partner, top-rope in the gym, do a partner check, and watch whether their brake hand ever leaves the rope before you agree to go outdoors together. If you see someone tied in with an unfinished knot, the DAV puts that in the 'must' category: stop them at once. Errors like occasional slack or a brake hand drifting upward can wait until both are back on the ground; but slack near the ground that would clearly mean a ground fall is a 'must', so say something right away.

Fear of Failure in Climbing: Performance Anxiety, Self-Compassion Writing, Imagery, Cue Words and a Three-Step Pre-Attempt Routine

People who fear failure often stop trying routes they might fail on, which makes the fear stronger. In a meta-analysis of competitive sport, self-confidence was more closely linked to performance than cognitive anxiety was, so build confidence first. Three methods have been tested: 60 Swiss climbers did 5 self-compassion writing tasks over two weeks and their somatic anxiety dropped; novices who did imagery training felt less stress; and for fine motor tasks, telling yourself how to do the move works better than pep talk (sport meta-analysis, not climbing).

Choosing Your First Climbing Shoes: Shape, How Tight Is Right, Stretch, and When to Resole

Pick a neutral or moderate first shoe you can wear through a whole session. Check three things: toes slightly bent and touching the end without pain, no heel lift, no hollow spots when you press the upper. Unlined leather stretches up to about a full size; synthetics barely stretch, so they must fit on the day. One beginner gear guide says half a size to one size down, another writer says not to use a formula, and studies measured bigger gaps, but those describe how tight people actually wear shoes, not advice: go by fit. Even makers disagree: Black Diamond says size down, Evolv says don't. Resole when the rubber under the big toe is thin, before you wear through the rand; one Taiwanese workshop quotes NT$1,500 a pair for a half sole (checked 2026-10-19).

Skin Care for Climbers: Sweaty Hands, Splits, Flappers, and How Skin Sets Your Number of Attempts

There is almost no clinical research on climbers' hand skin, so most advice here is coaching consensus. If sweating is severe, see a dermatologist: medical treatment usually starts with aluminium chloride antiperspirant, often with tap water iontophoresis added for sweaty palms. Antihydral (13% methenamine), common among climbers, has one controlled trial behind it, a small 1995 study of 60 people, and it must not be used by anyone allergic to formaldehyde or any of its ingredients. For it and for topical methenamine, no licence record was found in the Taiwan FDA's full drug licence dataset (searched 2026-10-19). On days when skin is short, warm up taped, make fewer, better attempts, and stop when your fingertips turn pink or start to weep.

What to Bring on a Climbing Trip Abroad: Bring, Rent or Leave-Behind Lists by Destination, Rope Length and Quickdraws

At most popular sport destinations a 70 m single rope is the minimum; Kalymnos, Chulilla and Yangshuo are more comfortable with 80 m, while 60 m is enough at Seonunsan in Korea. Bring 12–16 quickdraws, or 18–21 for the long lines at Kalymnos and Chulilla. Ropes and quickdraws can be rented in Thailand and on Kalymnos; in Japan and Korea, bring your own rope or buy one there. Always bring your own shoes and harness. You only need a second rope or a tag line when a multi-pitch double-strand rappel is longer than half your rope.

How Competition Bouldering Is Scored: 25 Points, 10 Points, Minus 0.1, and What Changed in 2025

Since 2025, World Climbing bouldering uses points: 25 for a top, 10 for reaching only the Zone, minus 0.1 for every failed attempt, with a maximum of 100 across four boulders. A top is always worth more than two Zones, so athletes keep going for tops rather than playing safe. The old system ranked by number of tops, then Zones, then attempts.

How Competition Lead Is Scored: High Point, the "+", Six Minutes, and Ranking Athletes Who Don't Top

In lead, each route gets one attempt of up to six minutes. Athletes who don't top are ranked by the last hold they controlled; if they controlled it and moved for the next hold, the result gets a '+' and ranks above someone who stopped at the same hold. Qualification takes the geometric mean of the ranks on two routes; in the semi-final and final, ties go to countback first, and remaining podium ties are decided on climbing time.

Speed Climbing: Why the Route Never Changes, the 0.1-Second False Start, and the 2026 Four-Lane Format

Speed uses the same 15-metre standard route everywhere, which is why it is the only climbing discipline with world records. As of 2026-10, the men's record is Zhao Yicheng's 4.54 seconds and the women's is Emma Hunt's 5.99 seconds. A reaction time under 0.100 seconds is a false start, and in a Speed 2 knockout race a false start means you lose. In 2026 the series used a four-lane format for the first time, with the top two in each race advancing.

How to Start Deep Water Soloing (DWS): S0–S3 Grades, Tides, Entry Technique and What to Ask Before Booking

DWS needs only shoes and chalk, but the risk has not gone away: the AAC notes at least three DWS deaths in Europe. The S0–S3 scale, created in Britain in the mid-1990s, rates what happens if you fall and assumes high tide; at low tide an S1 can become an S3. In a fall, enter feet first, legs together, arms tight to your body, eyes on the horizon — never look down. At Long Dong only a few rock-sheltered spots are climbable; elsewhere the rip currents are strong.

Free Soloing and Rope Soloing: Why Accidents Happen on Easy Routes, the Taipei 101 Livestream Debate, and the Risks of Climbing Alone on a Rope

The AAC says free solo accidents are "almost always fatal" and usually happen on popular moderate routes: in December 2024 two people died on two consecutive days in Colorado's Flatirons, on a 5.7 and a 5.4, and one of them had soloed his route many times. Honnold says no soloist has fallen while pushing their limit; the AAC says familiarity lowers focus. The two don't contradict each other: deaths tend to happen in easy, familiar places. Rope soloing carries its own risks: the top-rope solo accidents the AAC recorded share a single device, no backup knot and a climber in a hurry.

Highball Bouldering: How High Is High, and When to Toprope Instead

There is no fixed height for a highball: some say 10 feet (about 3 m), Climbing calls 15 feet (about 4.5 m) the "gym line", and others argue the landing and the height of the crux matter more than total height. Past a certain point, neither pads nor spotters can hold a falling climber; Climbing says don't even try to catch someone from 10 feet. Several AAC accident reports involve climbers stuck at the top out whose holds broke as they tried to downclimb. For most people the default should be a toprope: less gear, one partner, and bouldering legend John Gill did it too.

How to Start Ice Climbing: Water Ice vs Alpine Ice, WI and M Grades, Dry Tooling, and Where Taiwanese Climbers Go

Belaying and leading on ice work the same way as on rock; the protection is ice screws drilled into the ice. Grades run WI1–WI7: WI3 is sustained ice around 70 degrees with good rests, WI5 is a full pitch of 85–90 degrees with few rests. An analysis of 30 years of North American accident reports found the top factor in ice climbing accidents was inadequate protection or screws pulling out. Taiwan has almost no natural ice, so the usual path is to practise top-rope belaying and rappelling at a gym, then take a top-rope ice course in Korea or Japan; in the 2026 season, the beginner session at Akadake Kosen in Yatsugatake cost 3,000 yen.

Amalfi Coast: Tufa Sport Climbing above Positano, a Winter Crag | Italy Climbing Crags

Climbing on the Amalfi Coast centres on Montepertuso, the hamlet above Positano: a dozen or so limestone walls 10–35 minutes' walk from parking in the village, with theCrag listing 254 single-pitch sport routes, mostly 6a–7c. Cannabis, U' Piscione and the Paretone are steep tufa (canne) routes; La Selva and Brigante Mirabella are more technical slab. Most walls face west and only get sun in the afternoon in winter, so October to April is best and summer is too hot. SITA buses run from Sorrento or Amalfi to Positano, about 40 a day each way in October 2026; if you drive, plan for parking, as roadside parking in Montepertuso is banned all year.

Andonno: The Limestone Crag Behind Italy's First 8c+ | Italy Climbing Crags

A south-facing limestone sport crag at the mouth of Valle Gesso, about 13 km from Cuneo. Sites list 194–300 routes, mostly 6a to 7c; Noia (1993) is remembered as Italy's first 8c+, and the hardest line is Lapsus, 9a+. Since 1 October 2026 a mayoral order from Valdieri bans all access and climbing until maintenance work is finished, with no reopening date; check the town and park notices before you go.

Baunei and the Supramonte: A Sea-Cliff Spire and Limestone Multi-Pitch Hundreds of Metres Long | Italy Climbing Crags

The coast around Baunei on Sardinia's east side is the island's densest multi-pitch area: the 143 m Aguglia di Goloritzè spire above its beach, Punta Giradili with lines of 390 m and more, the Pedra Longa sea stack, and inland the Supramonte walls of Monte Oddeu, Punta Cusidore and the 400 m, 8b Hotel Supramonte. The easiest line up the Aguglia has a hardest pitch of 6b and is badly polished. What changes trips most is the cap at Cala Goloritzè: no more than 250 people at a time, a €7 ticket booked through Heart of Sardinia that opens three days ahead, and climbers have to work within the trail's opening hours too.

Pietra di Bismantova: A Calcarenite Monolith in the Emilian Apennines With 400-Plus Single Pitches and Short Multi-Pitches | Italy Climbing Crags

A flat-topped calcarenite monolith in the hills south of Reggio Emilia, 1 km long and 300 m above the plateau. theCrag lists 475 routes and falesia.it 452 in 30 sectors, making it the biggest crag in Emilia-Romagna. Most routes are bolted single pitches of about 20 m from grade 5 to 8c, plus 100–160 m short multi-pitches and some aid routes. The sandstone turns brittle when wet, so don't climb after rain; falesia.it says it can be climbed all year by picking the aspect. Without a car, take SETA line 44 to Castelnovo ne' Monti; a 2021 national park decision bans cycling and BASE jumping on the summit.