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Outdoor Bouldering

For gym boulderers heading to real rock for the first time: how to lay crash pads and spot, how to read a topo and keep access open, where to boulder in Taiwan, and when a highball should become a toprope. Each post flags what is backed by research and what is climber consensus.

Series guide

Your First Time Bouldering Outdoors: Laying Crash Pads and Spotting

The gym gives you wall-to-wall matting; outside, you build the landing yourself. Put pads where you are most likely to fall and where a fall would hurt most, keep them level with no gaps, and re-check after every attempt; landing on a pad edge or in a gap is a common way to sprain an ankle. Spotting protects the head and neck and keeps the climber on the pads; it is not catching. Fingers together, thumbs tucked, and agree beforehand when the pads move and when the spotter steps back. Research on outdoor bouldering injuries is scarce: one Swedish study had only nine boulderers, and every one of them was hurt in the foot or ankle.

Reading a Bouldering Topo and Crag Etiquette: Finding Problems Outdoors Without Getting the Crag Closed

Outdoor problems have no coloured holds, so you read the topo: find the start holds, check for sds (sit start), and see whether the finish is a final hold or a top out. If nothing says how to start, the Fontainebleau convention is a standing start from the ground. Etiquette is about keeping access: park where you're meant to, keep quiet, put pads on durable ground, brush off chalk and tick marks before you leave, stay off wet sandstone, and carry out all trash and any pads you stashed.

Bouldering in Taiwan: Where to Go First and Where to Get Crash Pads

Taiwan has about ten published bouldering areas and two bilingual guidebooks. Without a car, and climbing around V2 in the gym, start at Chung Tai Chan Monastery in Beitou: about 17 minutes on foot from MRT Qiyan Station, with flat ground and low boulders. With a car, Li-Yang near Taichung has mostly good riverbed landings and problems mostly from V0 to V5. None of these areas has a bouldering notice from a land manager that we could find, which does not mean anything goes. Taiwan is wet: mountain areas get overgrown with moss again, and riverbed areas depend on the weather and the river.

Highball Bouldering: How High Is High, and When to Toprope Instead

There is no fixed height for a highball: some say 10 feet (about 3 m), Climbing calls 15 feet (about 4.5 m) the "gym line", and others argue the landing and the height of the crux matter more than total height. Past a certain point, neither pads nor spotters can hold a falling climber; Climbing says don't even try to catch someone from 10 feet. Several AAC accident reports involve climbers stuck at the top out whose holds broke as they tried to downclimb. For most people the default should be a toprope: less gear, one partner, and bouldering legend John Gill did it too.