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At Pocol, just west of Cortina d'Ampezzo, the SP638 road climbs toward Passo Giau. Between 1.5 and 4 km up it, three single-pitch sport crags sit beside the road: Bèco d'Ajàl, Crépe de Oucèra Basse and Crépe de Oucèra Alte. The Cortina tourist board calls Basse one of Cortina's first crags, "seconda solo a quella del Béco d'Ajàl" (second only to Bèco d'Ajàl) (Cortina tourist board).
This post helps you choose among the three: which crag fits your level and the day's weather, which months, where to park and how long a rope to bring. A few kilometres further up are the Cinque Torri, covered separately. For seasons and regions across Italy, see the series overview.
What kind of crag is it
All three are dolomite and bolted sport climbing, but the styles differ a lot:
| Crépe de Oucèra Basse | Crépe de Oucèra Alte | Bèco d'Ajàl | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Altitude | 1,610–1,660 m | 1,700–1,800 m | 1,750 m |
| Aspect | North (falesia.it: north-east) | South (Planetmountain: SSE) | All directions |
| Routes | 80+ pitches (tourist board); 83 (theCrag, falesia.it) | 80+ (tourist board, guidedolomiti); 70 pitches (Planetmountain) | about 50 (tourist board); 52 (Climbook), 62 (theCrag), 65 (falesia.it) |
| Grades | 4 to 7c, mostly 6 (tourist board) | 6a to 8b+ (tourist board) | 6a to 8c (tourist board), mostly 7 (guidedolomiti) |
| Route length | up to 30 m | up to 40 m | 20–40 m |
| Rope | 70 m | 80 m | 80 m for the long routes |
| Approach | 5 min | 5–20 min | about 35 min |
Sources: Cortina tourist board Basse, Alte, Bèco d'Ajàl, guidedolomiti, Planetmountain, falesia.it Basse, falesia.it Bèco, Climbook (checked October 2026). falesia.it lists Bèco at 2,120 m, far from the tourist board's 1,750 m; this post uses the tourist board figure.
Crépe de Oucèra Basse: beginners and warm-ups. A vertical wall in the forest of solid, water-worn pocketed dolomite with close bolting; the tourist board says it is "adatta ai principianti e anche ai bambini" (suitable for beginners and even children). It was found and fully bolted by Scoiattoli member Diego Ghedina in the early 1990s. guidedolomiti describes technical slab climbing where routes do not always reveal themselves at first sight.
Crépe de Oucèra Alte: Cortina's first modern crag. A long band of rock at the foot of the Cinque Torri. The tourist board splits it into four sectors, right to left: Fedora (vertical pockets and edges, technical), Magica (compact overhanging slab, home of Magica Armonia 7c), Babuska (more friable, steeper, powerful) and Dita di Burro (pocket routes from 6b to 7, plus the crag's hardest, Polvere 8b+). Bolting suits the grade and is more spaced than at Basse. Planetmountain says that, with the Cinque Torri, it is "one of the most important crags in the entire eastern Dolomites".
Bèco d'Ajàl: overhanging endurance. Three 60–80 m blocks in the forest, mostly overhanging, of yellow and black pocketed dolomite. The tourist board says Cortina's first 8c, "Schiaffo", was climbed here in 2003 by Scoiattoli member Luca Zardini. guidedolomiti says the routes are long and sustained, "not the place for short, bouldery routes", and the bolts are relatively spaced.
Who it suits. New to outdoor climbing, or bringing children: Basse. Around 6b to 7c and wanting variety: Alte. 7th grade and up, training endurance: Bèco d'Ajàl.
When to go
| Crag | Season | Source |
|---|---|---|
| Basse | Summer (May–October); north-facing, shaded by forest, morning sun, rarely damp | Cortina tourist board |
| Alte | Spring and autumn as well as summer; sunny winter days if there is little snow | Cortina tourist board, Planetmountain |
| Bèco d'Ajàl | June–September; cool, and the walls stay wet for several days after long rain | Cortina tourist board |
Pick the crag for the weather. On hot midsummer days go to north-facing Basse or forested Bèco; in cool spring or autumn go to south-facing Alte. Avoid Bèco after heavy rain: the tourist board says it takes days to dry, and Planetmountain says Alte's overhanging sector (which it calls Tetti) stays wet after heavy rain too.
Getting there
All three are on the SP638, measured from the turn-off past Hotel Argentina at Pocol (Cortina tourist board):
| Crag | Parking | Walk to the wall |
|---|---|---|
| Bèco d'Ajàl | about 1.5 km, on the left before Malga Peziè de Parù | about 35 min |
| Basse | about 3 km, on the left at the end of the first set of 5 tight hairpins | about 5 min |
| Alte | about 4 km, long narrow lay-by on the right after a straight | 5–20 min |
Public transport
Dolomiti Bus's 2026 summer seasonal lines are only lines 50, 51 and 52, with nothing to Passo Giau. The nearest stop is Pocol on line 52 (Cortina–Passo Falzarego): from 10 September to 4 October it ran 5 times a day from Cortina Scuole (08:00, 10:00, 13:00, 15:00, 17:00), 15 minutes to Pocol. From Pocol it is another 1.5 to 4 km of road to the parking spots, and we found no separate footpath. The 2026 summer timetable ended on 4 October (checked October 2026). In practice you need a car.
Driving
From Cortina head toward Passo Falzarego; at Pocol, past Hotel Argentina, turn onto the SP638 toward Passo Giau (Cortina tourist board).
Parking
Bèco d'Ajàl. Park at the roadside before Malga Peziè de Parù. The tourist board's approach: follow the mule track toward Val di Formin, turn left after the bridge at the crag sign, climb through fir forest for about 30 minutes to a clearing, then turn right for 5 minutes to the wall. Climbook gives about 55 minutes via path 434, longer than the tourist board.
Basse. A small lay-by on the left at the end of the first hairpins; a flat path opposite leads about 400 m through the forest, 5 minutes to the wall.
Alte. The long narrow lay-by on the right, which is also the start of path 437 to the Cinque Torri and the paths to Croda da Lago. Take the path to the right of the Cinque Torri one and skirt a wooded hill; the first sector is about 100 m away and visible from the car (Cortina tourist board). guidedolomiti gives 10 to 20 minutes depending on the sector.
Rules to know before you go
Closures. When checked in October 2026, no closure or climbing ban was found for any of the three crags.
Bolts. Basse is closely bolted; Alte's bolting is matched to the grade and more spaced than Basse; at Bèco, with high grades and overhanging walls, bolts are far apart but "still safe" (Cortina tourist board). Climbook's Bèco page says the bolting on almost every route was recently overhauled, with data dated 2021.
Rope length. 70 m at Basse; 80 m for the long routes at Alte and Bèco (tourist board, guidedolomiti).
Food. The tourist board lists Malga Peziè de Parù, Baita Il Cervo and the Hotel Argentina bar-restaurant nearby.
Rescue and cost. Italy's emergency number is 112 (CNSAS). These crags are in Veneto; under DGR 1411/2011, "arrampicata libera" (free climbing) is a high rescue-commitment activity, and if a helicopter or mountain rescue team is needed the injured person pays a share according to the regional tariff.
Registration and fees. None of the sources mention registration, an access fee or parking charges.
Routes by level
YDS and V-grade conversions follow the Mountain Project international grade comparison chart and are approximate; "approx." marks grades the sources give without a/b/c (such as 4 or 5+). The original grade is the one that counts.
Most Alte route names and grades come from Planetmountain's route table, whose sector names (Primo, Magica, Tetti) differ from the tourist board's four sectors; the tables follow Planetmountain. Basse uses the most-repeated lists on falesia.it and Climbook (Climbook only covers one Basse sector). Bèco uses Climbook's most-repeated list.
Beginner: up to 6a (YDS 5.10a and below)
Almost all of this band is at Basse, which the tourist board says starts at grade 4. Alte's rightmost Primo sector also has a few short 5s and 6a.
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Escluso autoveicoli | 4c | 5.6 | single pitch | Basse | falesia.it most-repeated list |
| Fun Tomas | 5a | 5.7 | single pitch | Basse | Top of falesia.it's most-repeated list |
| Zanzara a zonzo | 5b (Climbook: 5b+) | 5.8 | single pitch | Basse | On both falesia.it and Climbook lists |
| Gommapiuma | 5c | 5.9 | single pitch | Basse | falesia.it; Climbook lists the second pitch separately at 5b |
| Promenade | 5c | 5.9 | single pitch | Basse | Climbook |
| Didò | 5 | approx. 5.7–5.8 | 8 m | Alte Primo sector | Planetmountain route table |
| Momo | 5+ | approx. 5.9 | 10 m | Alte Primo sector | Planetmountain route table |
| Ochiti pochiti | 6a | 5.10a | 2 pitches (Climbook gives 6a for both) | Basse | falesia.it, Climbook |
| Fedora | 6a | 5.10a | 22 m | Alte Primo sector | Planetmountain; the tourist board says the Fedora sector is named after this 6a warm-up |
| Mai contenta | 6a | 5.10a | single pitch | Bèco d'Ajàl | Climbook most-repeated list |
Intermediate: 6a+ to 6c+ (YDS 5.10b–5.11c)
Planetmountain says Alte's Primo sector is the most popular, with "the vast majority of pitches between 6a-6c", and recommends Pikindolor and Latte acido.
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Stai zitto che non sei altro | 6a+ | 5.10b | single pitch | Basse | Climbook most-repeated list |
| Snorki | 6a+ | 5.10b | 14 m | Alte Primo sector | Planetmountain |
| Palle al balzo | 6b | 5.10c | single pitch | Basse | falesia.it, Climbook |
| Sorci verdi | 6b (falesia.it: 6b+) | 5.10c | single pitch | Basse | Top of Climbook's most-repeated list |
| Duca dik tut a post | 6b | 5.10c | single pitch | Bèco d'Ajàl | Climbook |
| Melassa | 6b+ | 5.10d | 16 m | Alte Primo sector | Planetmountain; the tourist board lists it as a historic classic |
| Latte acido | 6b+, 6b, 6a+, 6c | hardest 5.11a/b | 4 pitches (20+18+12+8 m) | Alte Primo sector | Recommended by Planetmountain; a historic classic per the tourist board |
| Pikindolor | 6c, 6b+, 6a, 6b+ | hardest 5.11a/b | 4 pitches (20+15+12+8 m) | Alte Primo sector | Recommended by Planetmountain |
| Klamera | 6c | 5.11a/b | 16 m | Alte Primo sector | Planetmountain |
| Attività sassuale | 6c | 5.11a/b | single pitch | Basse | falesia.it |
| Profumo di donna | 6c+ | 5.11c | 20 m | Alte Primo sector | Planetmountain |
| Petorada | 6c+ | 5.11c | 32 m | Alte Primo sector | Planetmountain |
| Sciarlot | 6c+ | 5.11c | single pitch | Bèco d'Ajàl | Climbook |
| Via del Dodo | 6c, 6b, 6b, 6b, 5c | hardest 5.11a/b | about 150 m, 5 pitches | Bèco d'Ajàl main wall | guidedolomiti: fully bolted multi-pitch opened in August 2026, grades not yet confirmed; on the approach "do not follow" the crag signs |
Advanced: 7a to 7c+ (YDS 5.11d–5.13a)
This band is concentrated in Alte's Magica and Tetti sectors and at Bèco; Planetmountain says Tetti has the powerful routes above 7b.
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Spitta e spera | 7a | 5.11d | 20 m | Alte Primo sector | Planetmountain |
| Patapunfete | 7a | 5.11d | 22 m | Alte Magica sector | Planetmountain; a historic classic per the tourist board |
| Whisky and Soda | 7a | 5.11d | 18 m | Alte Magica sector | Planetmountain |
| Tequila gold | 7a+, 6c | hardest 5.12a | 2 pitches (20+15 m) | Alte Magica sector | Planetmountain |
| Cuba libre | 7b | 5.12b | 26 m | Alte Primo sector | Planetmountain |
| Babuska | 7b | 5.12b | 22 m | Alte Tetti sector | Planetmountain |
| Il trono | 7b | 5.12b | single pitch | Bèco d'Ajàl | Climbook |
| Gin Fizz | 7b+ | 5.12c | 31 m | Alte Primo sector | Planetmountain |
| Magica armonia | 7c | 5.12d | 24 m | Alte Magica sector | Planetmountain; the tourist board and guidedolomiti say the sector is named after it |
| Delta force | 7c | 5.12d | 22 m | Alte Tetti sector | Planetmountain |
| Desgalonà | 7c | 5.12d | single pitch | Bèco d'Ajàl | Climbook |
| Schizofrenica follia | 7c+ | 5.13a | 23 m | Alte Magica sector | Planetmountain |
| Se safi | 7c+ | 5.13a | single pitch | Bèco d'Ajàl, Insc-Allah south | Climbook |
Expert: 8a and up (YDS 5.13b and up)
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Resinata | 8a | 5.13b | 24 m | Alte Tetti sector | Planetmountain |
| Che ben che la vedo | 8a | 5.13b | single pitch | Bèco d'Ajàl | Top of Climbook's most-repeated list |
| Fisiognomica | 8a+ | 5.13c | 22 m | Alte Magica sector | Planetmountain |
| Attibabao | 8a+ | 5.13c | 26 m | Alte Tetti sector | Planetmountain |
| Viaggio nel vuoto | 8a+ | 5.13c | single pitch | Bèco d'Ajàl | Climbook |
| Polvere | 8b+ | 5.14a | single pitch | Alte Dita di Burro sector | Cortina tourist board: climbed by Luca Zardini, hardest at the crag |
| Schiaffo | 8c | 5.14b | single pitch | Bèco d'Ajàl | Cortina tourist board: Cortina's first 8c, Luca Zardini 2003 |
Where to look things up
- Cortina tourist board crag pages: altitude, aspect, season, route count and parking for each crag (Italian and English).
- guidedolomiti: crags in Cortina: local guide Enrico Maioni's grouping of Cortina-basin crags (for beginners, for strong climbers, cool in summer, if it rains), useful for finding crags beyond these three.
- Planetmountain: Crépe de Oucèra Alti: full route tables for Alte (name, length, grade).
- falesia.it, Climbook, theCrag: route counts, user-suggested grades and most-repeated lists.
- Guidebooks: Grades and route counts here come mainly from online databases; the guidebook is the authority.
- Falesie a Cortina d'Ampezzo (Gruppo Scoiattoli Cortina, Idea Montagna, 2nd edition 2021, Italian/English/German, 352 pages, ISBN 979-12-80483-09-6): nearly 30 crags around Cortina, including Crepe de Oucera Bassi, Alti and Beco d'Ajal. The publisher page currently says "Esaurito" (out of stock); the earlier Roberto Casanova guide and the first edition are out of print.
- Dolomiti Bus seasonal lines: the current line 52 timetable (stops at Pocol).
References
- Cortina d'Ampezzo tourist board: Crépe de Oucèra Basse (in Italian)
- Cortina d'Ampezzo tourist board: Crépe de Oucèra Alte (in Italian)
- Cortina d'Ampezzo tourist board: Bèco d'Ajàl
- guidedolomiti: Crags in Cortina d'Ampezzo
- guidedolomiti: Via del Dodo on Bèco d'Aial
- Visit Dolomiti Bellunesi: Becco d'Ajal Climbing Crag
- Planetmountain: Crépe de Oucèra Alti
- falesia.it: Passo Giau - Crepe de Oucera Bassi (in Italian)
- falesia.it: Passo Giau - Beco d'Ajál (in Italian)
- Climbook: Crépe de Oucèra Basse (A) (in Italian)
- Climbook: Bèco d'Ajàl (in Italian)
- theCrag: Crepe De Oucera Bassi
- theCrag: Beco d'Ajal
- Idea Montagna: Falesie a Cortina d'Ampezzo (2nd ed., in Italian)
- guidedolomiti: Climbing crags guidebook for Cortina
- Dolomiti Bus: seasonal lines 2026 (in Italian)
- Dolomiti Bus: line 52 timetable (10 Sep–4 Oct 2026, PDF)
- CNSAS: Distress call
- Regione Veneto: DGR 1411/2011 Annex A (rescue cost-sharing, PDF, in Italian)