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Cinque Torri ("five towers") is a group of dolomite towers on a grassy slope west of Cortina d'Ampezzo in Veneto, on the road to Passo Falzarego. The Cortina tourist board's crag page opens with: "Cinque Torri is without a doubt the best known and historically most important climbing area in Cortina". The local climbing club, the Scoiattoli, trained here from its founding in 1939.
This post covers the decisions to make before going: whether it suits you, which months, how to get up there, when the road is closed, and what gear to bring.
What kind of crag is it
The name and the number of towers. From Cortina you see five towers; up close there are more. Planetmountain breaks them down: Torre Grande splits into Cima Sud, Cima Nord and Cima Ovest; Torre Seconda into Lusy, Barancio and Romana; then Torre Latina (the third), Torre Quarta (Quarta Bassa and Quarta Alta) and Torre Inglese (the fifth), with single-pitch routes also on Sasso Cubico and the "Massi" sector. Local guide Enrico Maioni of Guide Dolomiti counts them as "not five but rather eleven". There used to be a Torre Trephor to the northeast; the UKC sector notes say it stood 35 m tall and suddenly collapsed in early June 2004, with nobody on it.
Rock. The Cortina tourist board calls the rock "Dolomia Principale". Its bedding makes the rock square and sharp, with step-like ledges and roofs. South faces are mostly yellow, overhanging and blocky; north faces are greyer, with holes and hourglass threads worn by water. Planetmountain says much the same: the south faces "tend to remain dry" with horizontal crimps, while the overhanging north faces are dark grey with plenty of pockets.
Altitude and length. The towers sit at 2,200–2,360 m (Cortina tourist board); the highest, Torre Grande, is 2,361 m (Rifugio 5 Torri). Guide Dolomiti gives Torre Grande a height of about 170 m, with some smaller blocks under 10 m. UKC says routes are "no more than 220 m and usually more like 50 to 150 m".
Size. Each source counts differently (checked 2026-10-18):
| Source | Count | Original text |
|---|---|---|
| Cortina tourist board | 200+ pitches | "more than 200 equipped pitches of varying difficulty, between 3 and 8b" |
| Planetmountain | 130 routes | "130 routes up to 8b, including numerous multi-pitch routes of which 18 are classics and 19 are modern" |
| Guide Dolomiti | 140+ single pitches plus dozens of multi-pitches | "more than 140 single-pitch plus dozens of classic and modern multi-pitch routes" |
| theCrag | 137 routes | "Mostly Sport climbing 137 routes in crag" |
| UKC | 150 climbs | "Climbs 150" |
Grades. Planetmountain gives 3a–8b; Guide Dolomiti says "from III (UIAA) to 8b (French)". Classic multi-pitches keep UIAA grades (IV, V, VI); single-pitch sport routes use French grades.
Who it suits. theCrag calls it "ideal for beginners of alpine climbing. The routes are short and the approach is gentle". Planetmountain calls it "everyone's "gym"", where alpinists warm up before the big walls nearby such as the Tofane and Lagazuoi. If you want your first dolomite multi-pitch without a long walk-in, this is about as low a barrier as it gets; if you only want single-pitch sport, there are over a hundred routes.
Anchors. Guide Dolomiti writes that local guides began fitting large bolted rings at the belays of the most popular multi-pitches in the early 1940s, and "today, the belays of almost all routes are protected in this way", rappel stations included. UKC likewise says "almost all belay stances and rappel anchors are fixed".
When to go
The sources disagree a lot:
| Source | Season |
|---|---|
| Planetmountain | "Summer" |
| Le Dolomiti | "June to September, when the rock is dry and the lifts are open" |
| Guide Dolomiti | "from May to November"; in good weather the south face of Torre Grande even in winter |
| Cortina tourist board | "nearly all year round": north faces mostly only in summer, south faces on fine winter days |
In practice, the lift and the road decide. Winter climbing assumes you can get there. Guide Dolomiti says "Usually, this road is free of snow from the end of May to October". The chairlift ran 6 June–11 October in summer 2026, 9:00–17:00 (cortinadampezzo.it); UKC says "early June to late September". Check each year's announcement.
Afternoon storms. Le Dolomiti advises starting early and being "back down before the afternoon thunderstorms, common at altitude", and staying off wet rock or right after a downpour: "Damp dolomite is treacherous". Guide Dolomiti says that in bad weather only some single pitches on the south face of Torre Grande Cima Sud stay climbable.
Crowds. theCrag: "Expect crowds of climbers and visitors!" Le Dolomiti notes that in peak months you sometimes queue on the classics.
Getting there
| Public transport | Driving | |
|---|---|---|
| To Cortina | Dolomiti Bus line 30 (Calalzo–Cortina) or 72 (Cortina–Venezia) | — |
| Cortina to the crag | Dolomiti Bus line 52 (Cortina–Passo Falzarego), get off at Cianzopè or Cinque Torri | SR 48 toward Passo Falzarego |
| Last stretch | Chairlift from Bai de Dones to Rifugio Scoiattoli, or walk up from Cianzopè | Park at Bai de Dones and take the lift, or turn off at Cianzopè onto the road to Rifugio Cinque Torri (restricted in summer, see below) |
| To the rock | A few minutes to about 10 minutes from Rifugio Scoiattoli | Same |
Public transport
Dolomiti Bus runs seasonal line 52, "CORTINA D'AMPEZZO - PASSO FALZAREGO". The timetable for 10 September–4 October 2026 shows five buses a day from Cortina Scuole at 08:00, 10:00, 13:00, 15:00 and 17:00, with optional stops including Cianzopè, Cinque Torri and Cinque Torri Piazzale. Rifugio 5 Torri gives the summer timetable period as 8 June–9 September 2026. Line 52 is listed among Dolomiti Bus's seasonal lines and each period gets a new timetable, so check the current one before going.
Cortina itself has no railway. Dolomiti Bus's intercity list includes line 30 Calalzo–Cortina and line 72 Cortina–Venezia.
Driving and the chairlift
Planetmountain: from Cortina take the SS48 toward Passo Falzarego and turn left at km 112 toward Cianzopè–Rifugio Cinque Torri; park at the hut and walk 10–20 minutes to the towers. Guide Dolomiti gives the two junctions as Cianzopè (km 112.2) and the Bai de Dones chairlift about 2 km higher up (km 110).
UKC puts the chairlift car park "just under 15km" from Cortina; Rifugio Scoiattoli says about 13 km and describes the car park as "large, free, unattended". The lift goes up to Rifugio Scoiattoli (2,255 m), ten minutes from the crag according to theCrag. Walking up under the lift instead takes about an hour (theCrag, UKC).
UKC warns that the Cianzopè road is a "steep single-lane road with infrequent passing places and limited parking at the top, so an early start is essential". It is about 3 km long.
Road closure
The Cianzopè–Rifugio Cinque Torri road is restricted in summer, and the sources describe it differently:
| Source | What it says |
|---|---|
| Rifugio 5 Torri (2026) | "SUMMER ROAD CLOSURE" from Saturday 6 June to Sunday 11 October 2026, by resolution of the Regole council; shuttle only in August, from the Cianzopè barrier, 9:00–17:30, no reservation, €12 per person each way |
| Rifugio Scoiattoli | Open in summer except August, closed 9:30–15:30 with a paid shuttle |
| Planetmountain | Closed every Sunday in August 9:30–15:30, with a shuttle |
| Guide Dolomiti | "closed to general traffic from August to the second Sunday of September" |
| UKC | Closed 9:30–15:30 in August "(and at other periods during the season)"; an August 2025 comment says the barrier seemed to need a code |
The Rifugio 5 Torri notice for 2026 is the most recent and matches the lift season. Under it, in summer 2026 you go up by lift, on foot, or on the August shuttle. For other years, check the huts' current notices.
Walking routes without a car (Rifugio 5 Torri): from Bai de Dones on trail 425, about 1 h 30 and roughly 400 m of ascent; from Cianzopè on trail 439, about 2 h and roughly 500 m. Rifugio Cinque Torri to Rifugio Scoiattoli is about 20 minutes on trail 439 (Rifugio Scoiattoli).
Rules to know before you go
Rockfall and helmets. Every source stresses this. Cortina tourist board: "it is important to be aware of falling stones at the base of the walls. We therefore recommend wearing a helmet". Guide Dolomiti says to wear one on single pitches too, because "several multi-pitch routes cross above the single-pitch sport routes", and to watch for rockfall even when walking between the towers.
Classics need trad gear. Cortina tourist board: "Not all classic routes are bolted: mountaineering equipment is therefore required". Planetmountain: the classics have been partly re-equipped, but "they nevertheless require a full alpine rack"; descents from the towers are almost all by abseil, and multi-pitches have separate abseil stations. Le Dolomiti's gear list includes quickdraws, slings, gear for building belays, and "Cams and nuts for the trad lines". Guide Dolomiti suggests an 80 m rope for pitches of 10–40 m.
Protected area and WWI remains. Planetmountain says the crag is inside the Dolomiti d'Ampezzo nature park. Between the towers is an open-air First World War museum; the Museo della Grande Guerra says the Lagazuoi and Cinque Torri museums "sono percorsi storici gratuiti" (free historical trails), reached by cable car and chairlift.
Registration and fees. None of the sources mention climbing registration or an access fee. The chairlift has its own fares; check the operator.
Huts. At the foot of the towers are Rifugio Cinque Torri (2,137 m) and Rifugio Scoiattoli (2,255 m), with Baita Bai de Dones at the bottom of the lift (Planetmountain, Rifugio Scoiattoli).
Routes by level
YDS and V-grade conversions follow the Mountain Project international grade comparison chart and are approximate; "approx." marks grades the sources give without a/b/c (such as 4 or 5+). The original grade is the one that counts.
The Cortina tourist board says there are more than 200 bolted pitches here, graded 3 to 8b; no source gives a breakdown by grade. The classic multi-pitch routes mostly carry UIAA grades: those with a French grade go into the four bands below, and those with only a UIAA grade are in the last table. Guide Dolomiti's PDF of recommended single pitches by grade is the main source for the single pitches.
Beginner: up to 6a (YDS 5.10a and below)
theCrag calls the towers "ideal for beginners of alpine climbing", with short routes and a gentle approach. The small Torre Inglese and the west summit (Cima Ovest) of Torre Grande have several easy bolted routes.
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| School of Rock #1 | 4+ | approx. 5.6 | single pitch | Torre Latina | thetopo route list |
| Rosamunda | 5+ (thetopo) | approx. 5.9 | single pitch | Torre Grande west summit | Bolted; Mountain Project also lists it as a classic |
| West face - left | 5c+ | approx. 5.9+ | 20 m, single pitch | Torre Inglese west face | theCrag Torre Inglese: crux right at the start; guidebooks range from 5b to 6a |
| Onorevole Cicciolina | 6a | 5.10a | 26 m, single pitch | Torre Grande west summit | A Guide Dolomiti recommended pitch |
| Spigolo sud | 6a | 5.10a | 50 m | Torre Inglese | Three stars on theCrag, "very exposed and nice" |
| Via delle Raponzole | 6a | 5.10a | 4 pitches | Around Torre Grande | Listed as a classic multi-pitch by Planetmountain; Guide Dolomiti calls it a modern route |
Intermediate: 6a+ to 6c+ (YDS 5.10b–5.11c)
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Diretta Dimai | 6a+ (MP gives 6b) | 5.10b | 8 pitches | Torre Grande south summit | A Planetmountain classic; one of Guide Dolomiti's personal picks |
| Agrodolce | 6b | 5.10c | 35 m, single pitch | Torre Grande south summit | A Guide Dolomiti recommended pitch, also on Planetmountain's south summit list |
| Finlandia | max 6b | 5.10c | 5 pitches (MP: 6) | East face of Torre Grande north summit | A Planetmountain classic; MP calls it a more modern route, from 1959 |
| Franceschi | 6b (MP gives 6b+) | 5.10c | 3 pitches (MP: 5) | Torre Grande south summit | A Planetmountain classic |
| Spigolo Lorenzi | 6c+ | 5.11c | 40 m, single pitch | Torre Grande north summit | A Guide Dolomiti recommended pitch |
| Direttissima Scoiattoli | 6c+ | 5.11c | 6 pitches | Around Torre Grande | A Planetmountain classic |
Planetmountain's Torre Grande south summit list also has Thomas (6a+) and Fandango (6c) in this range.
Advanced: 7a to 7c+ (YDS 5.11d–5.13a)
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Spit Express | 7a+ (two pitches linked; thetopo gives 6c+) | 5.12a | 45 m | Torre Grande south summit | A Guide Dolomiti recommended pitch |
| Daù delle nevi | 7a+ | 5.12a | 20 m, single pitch | Torre Latina south wall | A Guide Dolomiti recommended pitch |
| Nordica | 6b and 7a+ pitches | hardest 5.12a | 2 pitches | Torre Grande south summit | On Planetmountain's south summit list |
| Nirvana | 7b | 5.12b | single pitch | Torre Grande west summit | thetopo |
| Strapiombino poliruga | 7c | 5.12d | 12 m, single pitch | Massi (boulders) | A Guide Dolomiti recommended pitch |
Expert: 8a and up (YDS 5.13b and up)
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Telefono azzurro | 8a | 5.13b | 14 m, single pitch | Sasso Cubico | A Guide Dolomiti recommended pitch |
| Calippo | 8a+ | 5.13c | single pitch | Torre Grande south summit | On Planetmountain's south summit list |
| Fulminetor | 8a+ | 5.13c | single pitch | Torre Grande west summit | thetopo |
| Piccolo Principe | 8b | 5.13d | 12 m, single pitch | Massi | A Guide Dolomiti recommended pitch |
| Abraxas | 8b | 5.13d | single pitch | Torre Grande south summit | The hardest route on Planetmountain's south summit list |
Trad and multi-pitch (UIAA grades)
Planetmountain says the classic multi-pitch routes need a full alpine rack (not all are bolted) and almost every descent is by abseil. Guide Dolomiti's personal picks, in rising difficulty, are Torre Inglese, Torre del Barancio, Miriam, Olga, Diretta Dimai and Raponzole.
| Route | Original grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Wall | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Via Normale (south-east face) | IV- | 5.4 | 53 m, 2 pitches | Torre Inglese | theCrag: a classic first multi-pitch for beginners, well protected nowadays with no extra gear needed; SummitPost: first climbed 1901; take a small rack and some quickdraws, one 45 m or two 25 m abseils |
| Via delle Guide | IV | 5.4 | 4 pitches | Torre Grande west summit | A Planetmountain classic; MP: first climbed 1930, a 5-minute walk from Rifugio Scoiattoli |
| North Face (Via Lusy Pompanin) | IV+ (MP) / 4 (thetopo) | 5.5 | 6 pitches (MP) | Torre Lusy | An MP classic |
| Via Ignazio Dibona | 4 (thetopo) | approx. 5.4–5.5 | multi-pitch | Torre del Barancio | Partly bolted; MP also lists this tower's Northwest Corner (V, 3 pitches) |
| Myriam (Via Miriam) | V (Planetmountain) / V+ (MP) | 5.6 | 6 pitches (Planetmountain) / 5 (MP) | Torre Grande south summit | First climbed 1927 (MP); the Cortina tourist board calls it "a beautiful classic route among the best known and most popular in the Ampezzo basin"; the most-rated route on MP |
| Via Olga | VI (MP) / 5 (thetopo) | 5.9 | 3 pitches | Torre Grande west summit | North-west corner; one of Guide Dolomiti's personal picks |
| Fessura Dimai | VI | 5.9 | 4 pitches | Around Torre Grande | A Planetmountain classic |
Where to look things up
- Planetmountain: Cinque Torri: route lists per tower (including classic multi-pitches), access, huts. The Italian version is here.
- Guide Dolomiti: a local guide's crag overview, tower names and recommended routes.
- Guidebooks: route grades and route counts in this article come mainly from online databases such as theCrag and Mountain Project; where they disagree, go with the guidebook.
- Falesie a Cortina d'Ampezzo (Gruppo Scoiattoli Cortina, Idea Montagna, 2nd edition 2021, Italian, English and German, 352 pages, ISBN 979-12-80483-09-6): single-pitch and modern multi-pitch routes at about 28 crags around Cortina, Cinque Torri included, plus a selection of classics; Guide Dolomiti recommends it. The publisher page currently says "Esaurito" (sold out), and the 2016 first edition is out of print.
- The Dolomites: Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata (James Rushforth, Rockfax, 2nd edition November 2019, English, ISBN 978-1-873341-97-1): a selective guide to the whole Dolomites, with a Cinque Torri chapter covering Torre Grande through Quinta/Inglese. Rockfax lists it as out of stock, with a reprint due in autumn and a new edition in preparation; the full guide is on Rockfax Digital.
- theCrag, UKC: English summaries, route counts per tower, user comments (news like the road barrier often shows up here first).
- Dolomiti Bus seasonal lines: the current line 52 timetable PDF.
- Rifugio 5 Torri, Rifugio Scoiattoli: the year's road closure, shuttle times, trails.
- cortinadampezzo.it: summer lift openings: the year's season for the 5 Torri chairlift and nearby lifts.
References
- Cortina d'Ampezzo tourist board: Cinque Torri
- Planetmountain: Cinque Torri
- Guide Dolomiti: Cinque Torri, the "Scoiattoli's crag"
- Le Dolomiti: Rock Climbing at the Cinque Torri
- theCrag: Cinque Torri
- UKC Logbook: Cinque Torri
- Rifugio 5 Torri: 5 Torri (access and 2026 summer road closure)
- Rifugio Scoiattoli: Where we are
- cortinadampezzo.it: Apertura impianti estate 2026
- Dolomiti Bus: Linee stagionali 2026
- Dolomiti Bus: Line 52 timetable (10 Sep–4 Oct 2026, PDF)
- Dolomiti Bus: Linee extraurbane 2026-2027
- Museo della Grande Guerra (Lagazuoi, Cinque Torri)
- Guide Dolomiti: Recommended single pitches through the grades (PDF)
- theCrag: Torre Inglese
- thetopo: Cinque Torri route list
- Mountain Project: Classic Climbs for Cinque Torri Group
- Mountain Project: Cinque Torri Group
- SummitPost: Torre Inglese South-East Face
- Idea Montagna: Falesie a Cortina d'Ampezzo (2nd ed.)
- Rockfax: The Dolomites: Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata