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The Tre Cime di Lavaredo (German: Drei Zinnen) stand in the north-east of the Dolomites. The south side belongs to Auronzo di Cadore in the province of Belluno, Veneto; the north side faces South Tyrol. From east to west the three peaks are Cima Piccola, Cima Grande and Cima Ovest (theCrag). The north face of Cima Grande counts among the six great north faces of the Alps, alongside the Eiger and the Matterhorn; Emilio Comici's party of three took three days and two nights to climb it in 1933.
This post covers the decisions to make before going: whether your level points to the north faces or the south side, which months, how to book the toll road, how to get up without a car, and how rescue costs work. For seasons and regions across Italy, see the series overview.
What kind of crag is it
Big walls, not a sport crag. Most routes are multi-pitch climbs of 250 to 600 m where you place your own gear, rappel and find the line. Planetmountain describes the north side as "giallo e strapiombante" (yellow and overhanging) and known for its high difficulty; almost every route first climbed on aid has since been climbed free.
Rock. Well-bedded dolomite. Planetmountain says climbers new to it feel very insecure at first; the rock is loose in many places and needs care, though the loose holds on popular routes have mostly been cleaned off. Most routes have belays and pitons in place, but the pitons left from the aid era are "non tutti sicuri" (not all reliable).
North and south are different worlds. The north faces are steep, shady and cold, and that is where the big lines are. The south side has the Cima Grande normal route, first climbed in 1869, and the more recent Grohmann-Hainz. theCrag notes that the first-ascent routes on all three peaks are still the normal routes, and that Cima Piccola's is the hardest of them.
Size. The databases disagree a lot (checked October 2026):
| Source | Count | Note |
|---|---|---|
| theCrag | 49 routes | "Mostly Trad climbing" |
| UKC | 100 routes | exactly 100, possibly a display cap |
| Versante Sud guidebook | over 100 routes | classics plus every free version |
Who it suits. The cruxes of the north-face classics are mostly VI+ to VII, and with the length and route-finding they suit people who have already done a few long Dolomite routes. The south-side normal route never goes above IV, but it is long, needs route-finding and a descent by rappel; the Alta Pusteria tourist board says that with a mountain guide even people who usually just hike can do it, provided they have a head for heights and a little climbing experience. If you only want short single-pitch sport routes, the Tre Cime are the wrong place; Cortina's single-pitch crags and Cinque Torri fit better.
When to go
| Source | Season |
|---|---|
| Alta Pusteria tourist board | Best time for the Cima Grande normal route: mid-June to early October |
| Municipality of Auronzo | Toll road generally open late May to late October, closed in bad weather |
| Planetmountain | Spigolo Giallo: go outside the summer peak and avoid weekends |
Cold north faces, sun on the south-east. The north-face poster blurb on theCrag says Alpine north faces are notorious for their "lack of sun and warmth"; Planetmountain calls the west face where the Dülfer runs the "freddo versante ovest". The Spigolo Giallo and the Cassin on Cima Piccolissima face south-east.
After rain. Planetmountain's Petri Heil page warns that in a storm water pours down the first 7 pitches quickly, and they are usually dry only the next day.
Crowds. July and August are peak hiking season. The Municipality of Auronzo advises against taking the shuttle from Misurina then (long queues) and suggests an early bus from Auronzo instead.
Getting there
| Public transport | Driving | |
|---|---|---|
| To the area | Train to Calalzo di Cadore (Veneto side) or Dobbiaco (South Tyrol side) | From Cortina over Passo Tre Croci to Misurina |
| Up the mountain | Dolomiti Bus Misurina shuttle and line 50; line 444 direct from Dobbiaco | About 6 km of toll road beyond Lago Antorno, ending at Rifugio Auronzo (2,333 m) |
| To the walls | South side from the car park; north faces via Rifugio Lavaredo | Same |
Public transport
Dolomiti Bus (Veneto side). The Dolomiti Bus Tre Cime shuttle ran daily from 30 May 2026, from Misurina Genzianella via Lago Antorno to Rifugio Auronzo. It sells a day ticket; you can pay contactless on board, but not in cash (there is a ticket machine at Misurina). Getting to Misurina:
- Line 50 (Auronzo–Misurina–Tre Cime): the timetable for 10 Sep–4 Oct 2026 has Misurina to Rifugio Auronzo from 08:10 to 18:35, every half hour to hour; only a few morning and midday runs go direct from Auronzo village.
- Line 51 (Cortina–Passo Tre Croci–Misurina): the same period's timetable has 5 departures a day from Cortina Scuole (08:00, 10:00, 12:00, 15:00, 17:00), about 35 minutes to Misurina.
- By train: Calalzo is the nearest station; continue on line 30 to Cortina or change for Auronzo (Municipality of Auronzo).
All three are listed as Dolomiti Bus seasonal lines; the 2026 summer timetables ended on 4 October (checked October 2026).
Line 444 (South Tyrol side). südtirolmobil line 444 runs from Dobbiaco station via Lago di Landro straight to Rifugio Auronzo, without stopping at Misurina. In 2026 it ran daily from 31 May to 11 October, and every seat had to be booked and paid online in advance; the Alto Adige Guest Pass and Mobilcard are not valid on it. Dobbiaco is reached by regional train from Fortezza. When checked in October 2026, the booking page said the line would restart in summer 2027.
On foot. Without the bus or the toll road, you can walk up from Val Marzon to Rifugio Auronzo (about 960 m of ascent, 4 hours), or from Lago di Landro through Val Rienza to Rifugio Locatelli on the north side (Municipality of Auronzo).
Driving
From Cortina, cross Passo Tre Croci to Misurina. Past Misurina you pass Lago Antorno; about 500 m later is the toll gate, and the toll road runs up to Rifugio Auronzo (Municipality of Auronzo).
The toll road must be booked. The rules on the Municipality of Auronzo's parking page (checked October 2026):
- Online booking only, with your licence plate; the barrier reads the plate automatically and there is no ticket sale on site.
- The ticket runs 12 hours from your booked entry time. You cannot enter before that time; you can enter later but the end time stays the same; leaving the car park ends the permit.
- The road can close at short notice for weather or road conditions; if a municipal order closes it, you can rebook or get a refund (parking regulations).
- Rates depend on vehicle type and are set each year by the municipality; see the current table on the parking page.
Before booking, add up the approach, the climb and the descent. The FAQ says you can book a further consecutive 12-hour slot (if available); overstaying without one means paying a full day at the exit, twice the single rate.
Parking
The car park is right next to Rifugio Auronzo below the south faces. Camping in the car park is banned, with fines of €100 to €500; sleeping in the vehicle is allowed, but no tables, chairs or awnings. Parking along the road below the toll gate is prohibited and cars are towed (parking regulations).
To the walls. South-side routes start a short walk from the car park. For the north faces, follow the gravel road below the south faces (closed to traffic) to Rifugio Lavaredo, 15 minutes according to Planetmountain and 30 according to UKC, then cross Forcella Lavaredo and traverse along the foot of the north faces (Planetmountain Comici-Dimai).
Rules to know before you go
Closures. When checked in October 2026, no closure notice for climbing routes on the Tre Cime was found. The toll road itself closes for weather; see above.
Belays and pitons. Belays on popular classics have mostly been sorted: on the Hasse-Brandler the belays are "tutte attrezzate, anche con spit", but the pitons on the pitches are "non sempre affidabili", so bring plenty of quickdraws and slings to extend them (Planetmountain). The Comici-Dimai is "ben chiodata", but you still need nuts and cams. The Cima Grande normal route has many resin-glued bolts and can be rappelled.
The descent is the harder part to plan. After the Comici-Dimai you follow the circular ledge to the south-side normal route, make two 50 m rappels, then rappel or downclimb the east gully (Planetmountain). The descent often takes about as long as the ascent (vielunghe).
Rescue and cost. Italy's emergency number is 112 (CNSAS). The south side of the Tre Cime is in Veneto. Under Veneto's DGR 1411/2011 annex, climbing and mountaineering are "high rescue-commitment activities": if a helicopter or mountain rescue team is needed, the injured person pays a share according to the regional tariff, even if admitted to hospital. Buy insurance that covers helicopter rescue before you go.
Registration and fees. None of the sources mention climbing registration or an access fee; what you pay for is the toll road and the buses.
Routes by level
YDS and V-grade conversions follow the Mountain Project international grade comparison chart and are approximate; "approx." marks grades the sources give without a/b/c (such as 4 or 5+). The original grade is the one that counts.
Classic routes here mostly carry UIAA grades. Routes where Planetmountain gives a French free grade go in the four bands below; routes with only a UIAA grade go in the trad table at the end. Lengths are for the whole route, not single pitches; Planetmountain also gives an "obligatory" grade (obbligatoria), the minimum level if you aid the crux, listed in the notes.
Beginner: up to 6a (YDS 5.10a and below)
The sources list no routes in this band with a French grade. The routes a beginner can do are the south-side normal route and the Grohmann-Hainz, both graded UIAA; see the trad table at the end.
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Not listed by the sources | — | — | — | — | South-side beginner routes are in the trad table |
Intermediate: 6a+ to 6c+ (YDS 5.10b–5.11c)
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Petri Heil | 6c+ | 5.11c | 590 m | Cima Ovest north face | Planetmountain 4 stars; near the Spigolo Demuth, excellent rock; the first 7 pitches flood after rain |
Advanced: 7a to 7c+ (YDS 5.11d–5.13a)
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cassin-Ratti | 7a | 5.11d | 450 m | Cima Ovest north face | Planetmountain 3 stars, obligatory 6/A0; first ascent 1935; theCrag gives 8- (UIAA) |
| Spigolo Scoiattoli | 7a | 5.11d | 450 m | Cima Ovest north-west arête | Planetmountain, obligatory 6/A1; poor rock on the opening section shared with the Cassin |
| Hasse-Brandler | 7a+ | 5.12a | 550 m, 17–18 pitches | Cima Grande north face | Planetmountain 5 stars, obligatory 6/A2; first free ascent Kurt Albert 1987 (theCrag) |
| ISO 2000 | 7a+ | 5.12a | multi-pitch | Cima Grande north face | Planetmountain: left of the Comici, usually climbed only to half height; the upper half is looser and less protected |
| Gelbe Mauer (Muro Giallo) | 7a+ | 5.12a | multi-pitch | Cima Piccola | theCrag nearby icon; Planetmountain: modern bolted route by Glowacz and Albert, 1996 |
| Italo Svizzera | 7b | 5.12b | multi-pitch | Cima Ovest north face | Planetmountain: free to 7b; most parties finish up the Cassin |
| Pressknödel | 7c | 5.12d | multi-pitch | Cima Ovest | Planetmountain route list: opened by Hainz and Astner in 2009, freed in 2010 |
| Camillotto Pellisier | 7c+ | 5.13a | multi-pitch | Cima Grande north face | Planetmountain route list 5 stars, first free ascent 2003 |
Expert: 8a and up (YDS 5.13b and up)
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Akut | 8a | 5.13b | multi-pitch | Cima Ovest north face, right side | Planetmountain route list: first free ascent Kurt Astner 2001 |
| Ohne Rauch stirbst du auch | 8a | 5.13b | multi-pitch | Cima Grande north face, left side | Planetmountain route list: opened 2010; first one-day free ascent Ines Papert 2014 |
Harder still are the Phantom der Zinne (IX+) and the Schweizer Führe (9- on theCrag), both UIAA grades; see below.
Trad and multi-pitch (UIAA grades)
| Route | Original grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Wall | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Via Normale | III (crux IV) | 5.3 | about 650 m | Cima Grande south side | First ascent 1869; vielunghe: mostly I–III, the key chimney and wall IV; Alta Pusteria tourist board suggests a 60 m rope, rappel the route |
| Grohmann-Hainz | V- or IV A0 | 5.6 | 600 m, 20+ pitches | Cima Grande south pillar | Planetmountain: opened in 2019 for the 150th anniversary of the first ascent, obligatory IV; 3 rappels within the first 20 pitches, finishes on the normal route |
| Spigolo Dibona | IV+ | 5.5 | multi-pitch | Cima Grande | Single source: theCrag nearby icon, 3 stars |
| Via Dülfer | V+ | 5.7 | 250 m | Cima Grande west face | Planetmountain gives 5+; first ascent 1913; cold, quiet, bring cams |
| Spigolo Giallo | VI+ | 5.10a | 350 m | Cima Piccola south-east arête | Planetmountain, obligatory V+/A0; first ascent Comici and partners 1933; well equipped, very crowded |
| Comici-Dimai | VII | 5.10c | 550 m | Cima Grande north face | Planetmountain, obligatory V+/A1; first ascent 13–14 Aug 1933; theCrag also gives 7 |
| Cassin (Piccolissima) | VII- | 5.10b | 350 m | Cima Piccolissima south-east face | Planetmountain gives 7-, obligatory 6-/A0; first ascent 1934; yellow and overhanging, holds now solid from traffic |
| Nostalgie | VIII- | 5.11b | multi-pitch | Cima Piccola north face | Planetmountain route list: all pitons left in place, some belays on just two pitons |
| Phantom der Zinne | IX+ | 5.13a | multi-pitch | Cima Grande north face | Planetmountain route list; pitch 11 shared with the Sachsenweg (crux) |
Where to look things up
- Planetmountain: Tre Cime overview and route database: length, grade, obligatory grade, approach, descent and topo for each route (in Italian).
- theCrag, UKC: English overview, first-ascent history, user comments.
- Guidebooks: Grades and route counts here come mainly from online databases; the guidebook is the authority.
- Tre Cime – Vie classiche e moderne (Erik Švab and Giovanni Renzi, Versante Sud, 2009, Italian; the publisher also lists German and English versions; ISBN 978-88-87890-88-4): the dedicated Tre Cime guide, over 100 routes including the classics and every free version. The publisher page currently says "Non disponibile" (out of stock), and no edition after 2009 was found.
- The Dolomites: Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata (James Rushforth, Rockfax, 2nd edition 2019, English): a selection for the whole Dolomites with a Tre Cime chapter. Rockfax lists it out of stock with a reprint due in autumn; the full book is on Rockfax Digital.
- Municipality of Auronzo: Tre Cime parking: current toll rates, booking, FAQ and road-closure notices.
- Dolomiti Bus seasonal lines: current timetables for lines 50 and 51 and the Misurina shuttle.
- südtirolmobil line 444, booking page: timetable and seat booking on the South Tyrol side.
References
- Municipality of Auronzo di Cadore: Parking Tre Cime di Lavaredo
- Municipality of Auronzo di Cadore: parking regulations (Regolamento, in Italian)
- Municipality of Auronzo di Cadore: Come arrivare alle Tre Cime di Lavaredo (in Italian)
- Dolomiti Bus: Tre Cime shuttle 2026
- Dolomiti Bus: seasonal lines 2026 (in Italian)
- Dolomiti Bus: line 50 timetable (10 Sep–4 Oct 2026, PDF)
- Dolomiti Bus: line 51 timetable (10 Sep–4 Oct 2026, PDF)
- südtirolmobil: line 444 Toblach – Drei Zinnen timetable (PDF)
- südtirolmobil: Alle Tre Cime con i mezzi pubblici (in Italian)
- Drei Zinnen: line 444 booking page
- Planetmountain: Tre Cime di Lavaredo - arrampicate in Dolomiti (in Italian)
- Planetmountain: Tre Cime di Lavaredo route list
- Planetmountain: Via Comici-Dimai
- Planetmountain: Spigolo Giallo
- Planetmountain: Cassin-Ratti, Cima Ovest
- Planetmountain: Via Dülfer
- Planetmountain: Via Cassin, Cima Piccolissima
- Planetmountain: Spigolo Scoiattoli
- Planetmountain: Petri Heil
- Planetmountain: Hasse Brandler
- Planetmountain: Grohmann-Hainz
- theCrag: Tre Cime di Lavaredo
- UKC Logbook: Tre Cime
- vielunghe.com: Cima Grande Via Normale (in Italian)
- Alta Pusteria tourist board: Cima Grande di Lavaredo (in Italian)
- Versante Sud: Tre Cime
- Rockfax: The Dolomites: Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata
- CNSAS: Distress call
- Regione Veneto: DGR 1411/2011 Annex A (rescue cost-sharing, PDF, in Italian)