🌏 中文版
Thinking about climbing in Vietnam, what comes to mind first is often the karst island group of Ha Long Bay: sixteen hundred limestone islands on the sea, cliffs rising straight out of the water. But climbing in Ha Long Bay itself is illegal, and the harbor police regularly turn climbers away. The three places you can actually plan around are all further north: Hữu Lũng in the Lạng Sơn valley, the island of Cat Ba, and Vịnh Lan Hạ Bay.
This series runs one guide per crag area, five in all. This one helps you settle on a base, the months to travel and whether to handle the visa yourself; it also sorts out the places you cannot climb or go to right now, so you do not find out halfway through planning.
Pick a base first, then pick a crag
A climbing trip in northern Vietnam splits into three ways of doing it: stay in a village near Lạng Sơn and ride a motorbike to the wall every day, sleep two nights on Cat Ba and spread the island's walls across your days, or take a boat into Lan Hạ Bay for the beach routes and deep-water soloing. The three have completely different route density, transport cost and risk.
| Base | Main crags | Style and size | Best for | The catch |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hữu Lũng main valley | Head Wall, Dragon Wall, Drone Wall, Dead End, La Conche, L'Ile Noire | Mostly limestone sport, 147 routes 5a–8a+, averaging 20–40 m | People who want to climb short routes every day, eat and sleep in a homestay, and are willing to ride a motorbike themselves | The walls sit inside private orchards, access is 15,000–25,000 VND, and the ATM is a 40-minute drive away |
| Hữu Lũng east side and new sectors | WoofStuck, Cobra Wall, Infinity Cave, Primitive, Floatin' Shore, Weeping Wall, Papaya, The Arch | The east side of the same valley and the 2023–2025 new sectors, 120 routes 5a–8c | People looking for harder lines, or who want to avoid the main-valley crowds | Primitive Wall is still being developed, and the approach to The Arch is a wet, extremely slippery clay path |
| Cat Ba | Butterfly Valley, Fisher Valley, Hidden Valley, The Cave | Island limestone, 178 routes 3a–9a, including roofs and short bouldering caves | People who want to mix climbing with an island trip and are willing to pay access fees | Climbing is "tolerated rather than permitted", bolt condition varies from sector to sector, and the ferry and bus eat half a day |
| Vịnh Lan Hạ | Tiger Beach, Moody's Beach, Sea Face, Three Brothers, Le Mekong | 326 routes 4a–8a+, beach sport plus 24 deep-water soloing walls | People with DWS experience who want to see karst seascapes | In winter the tide is rarely high enough, so deep-water soloing only happens now and then; some bay climbing is illegal |
If you have one trip of seven to ten days and what matters most is climbing the routes you came for, Hữu Lũng is the most efficient: 267 routes sit inside a 5 km radius, the two homestays are the climbers' community hub, the hosts are the orchard owners, access fees are easy to pay, gear is easy to rent and partners are easy to find. Cat Ba means a ferry, which eats most of a day each way; Lan Hạ means a boat, the right tide and a guide.
When to go
Northern Vietnam has a monsoon climate, and the climbing season comes down to three things: rainfall, tides, and how long the daylight lasts.
| Months | Conditions | Planning note |
|---|---|---|
| Nov–Dec | Driest, most sunshine, fewest rain days | The best window. Hữu Lũng is just above 20°C by day with 124 hours of sunshine; Cat Ba is quiet in the cool season |
| Jan–Feb | Rainfall still low, but rain days increase and sunshine drops to 45–74 hours | Not much rain, but the rock does not dry easily: friction is good and your hands are cold when you clip. Bring a warm layer |
| Mar–May | It heats up and rain days clearly increase | If you climb, go early or pick shaded walls; this is also the season when Lan Hạ deep-water soloing starts to work |
| Jun–Oct | Wet season, typhoon season | The valleys on Cat Ba flood, and some Butterfly Valley routes become inaccessible |
One key fact about Hữu Lũng is that there are still walls to climb when it rains. Dragon Wall faces northwest, which keeps it in shade all morning and into the early afternoon, and its roof keeps it dry in wet weather; Infinity Cave is a big cave marked "dry when it rains". Those two are the only rain tags in the whole valley — the other sector pages say nothing about what rain does, which is the same as having no data, so do not reason it out for yourself. Do not force a plan onto a wall with no rain data.
Tides decide whether Lan Hạ is usable. theCrag's description of Lan Hạ is blunt: deep-water soloing needs a tide above 2 m, and high daytime tides come far more often in summer than in winter. So winter suits sport climbing, but deep-water soloing is out on most days; spring (April–May) and autumn (September–November) are the seasons when both work. One thing to keep straight: tides limit DWS. Sport climbing on the beach is not affected by the tide. A winter trip to Lan Hạ can be built entirely around beach routes like Tiger Beach and Moody's Beach.
Also, over Tết, the Vietnamese New Year, most restaurants close and taxi and transport fares double. There is no published notice on whether the Hữu Lũng homestays and the Cat Ba operators stay open over the New Year, so keep your trip either side of Tết.
Getting there
Taiwanese passports need a visa for Vietnam, and an e-visa can be done online. Entry first, then how to reach the three bases.
- Visa: Vietnam has taken e-visa applications from every nationality since August 2023; the online application takes about three to seven working days and the visa is valid for up to 90 days. Single entry is US$25 and multiple entry is US$50 (based on the online application page at evisa.gov.vn). Visa-free entry applies only to travelers flying directly to Phú Quốc from abroad, so it does not work for northern Vietnam. Vietnam is also trialling an "arrival declaration": fill it in three days before departure and you get a QR code to show at immigration.
- Hanoi: there are direct flights from Taoyuan to Hanoi, a little over two hours in the air. Hữu Lũng is about a two-hour drive from Hanoi; Cat Ba is two and a half to three and a half hours from Hanoi including the ferry; Lan Hạ lies off the islands and you have to start from Cat Ba town.
Detailed transport, parking and shuttle information for each base is in that guide:
- Hữu Lũng main valley: the Hanoi shuttle leaves 490 Minh Khai every day at 09:00 and 16:00 and takes about three hours; there is also a Gia Lam bus that leaves at midday, but it only reaches the market, still 2.5 km from the homestay.
- Cat Ba: between Hanoi and Cat Ba you can take a bus (with ferry booking arranged) or a private car.
- Lan Hạ: the boat leaves from Cat Ba town, and this is the transport bottleneck for the whole series.
Where you cannot go right now
This is the part of the overview worth remembering most. Climbing in northern Vietnam is not a question of "whether the routes exist" but of "whether you can get in".
| Area | Status | Basis |
|---|---|---|
| Quốc Oai (just outside Hanoi) | Sport climbing banned since 2019, bouldering tolerated | theCrag's area description (database level; no original government notice found) |
| Ben Beo Harbour (Cat Ba) | The government has announced its closure, and theCrag still lists 8 routes | theCrag's area description says "the government has formally closed it" |
| Vịnh Hạ Long (Ha Long Bay itself) | Climbing is illegal, harbor police regularly turn climbers away, and the boat operators risk having their licenses revoked | theCrag's Cat Ba Island description |
| Ngũ Hành Sơn (Da Nang) | Not open at present | Recorded in the trip notes; no current notice found |
| Mai Châu | Only 24 routes online, not enough data to plan around | theCrag Vietnam index |
The situation on Cat Ba itself is more delicate. theCrag puts it plainly: climbing on the island is "tolerated rather than permitted". In most sectors you buy a pass from a climbing operator or pay a small amount to the landowner; there is no other major problem, but the Vietnamese government is looking for reasons to tighten climbing access on the island. Every area description on the island repeats the same line: with rock able to fall at any time, a helmet is required island-wide.
Do not bribe officials. theCrag singles out this point: someone tried it, and the result was setting a very bad precedent that will only make things harder later.
Route data and bolts
Vietnam has no single official route database. In practice you look at three sources at once, and the numbers will not match:
- theCrag Vietnam: Hữu Lũng 267 routes (21 sectors), Cat Ba 178, Lan Hạ 326 (October 2026 figures). Free, but you need to log in to generate a PDF.
- Vietnam Climbing: second edition, 2023, 230 pages, covering the whole country. It includes only 122 Hữu Lũng routes, less than half the online database; the sport and deep-water routes of Ha Long Bay and Cat Ba are the bulk, with overviews of Quốc Oai and Mai Châu as well.
- Vertical-Life (8a.nu): 231 routes and 20 crags at Hữu Lũng, subscription-based.
The three numbers differ because the logging scope differs; it does not mean anyone is wrong. A route count is not a safety guarantee. The whole of Hữu Lũng uses 316 stainless steel, yet the same database carries warnings such as "some bolts look rusty", "anchor hangers are corroded", "the nut on the 7th bolt is loose", "missing hanger" and "still needs one more anchor", most of them undated. The warnings on Cat Ba's Butterfly Valley are blunter: "most of the bolts and the top look very rusty", "still dropping rocks". These are crowdsourced reports, not inspection reports; look at the hangers, nuts and anchors yourself before you leave, and change the route if it needs changing.
Access at Hữu Lũng is paid in cash. Most walls sit in private orchards, and hosts often charge 20,000 to 25,000 VND, so bring exact notes; the nearest ATM in the valley is a 40-minute drive. Passe-Muraille is free, and Squirrel Wall and Crying Moon have no published rate.
How to read the grades
Vietnam's databases use French grades (FR), not YDS. This series keeps the original grades, converts them only when you need to compare, and the conversion is only approximate:
| French grade | YDS | French grade | YDS |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5a | 5.7 | 6c | 5.11a/b |
| 5b | 5.8 | 6c+ | 5.11c |
| 5c | 5.9 | 7a | 5.11d |
| 6a | 5.10a | 7a+ | 5.12a |
| 6a+ | 5.10b | 7b | 5.12b |
| 6b | 5.10c | 7c+ | 5.13a |
| 6b+ | 5.10d | 8a | 5.13b |
Conversions follow the Mountain Project international grade comparison chart; every guide in the series uses the same table, and "approx." marks grades the sources give without a/b/c, such as 5+ or 4+.
Three things worth thinking about before the grades themselves:
- Hữu Lũng is not a soft holiday-grade crag. theCrag's area description says outright that "this place is generally not soft holiday grades", and the grades are broadly accurate. If you expect to climb a 6b, you will be climbing a 6b.
- Deep-water soloing and sport climbing are not the same thing. Lan Hạ's DWS grades are also FR, but what they ask for is tide, water depth, a read on where a fall lands and teamwork on the rope, not fixed bolt protection.
- Roofs are not decoration. Several Cat Ba routes have roof sections (7a+ Formic Acid in Fisher Valley, 7b+ Shampoo Effect in Hidden Valley, 8a+ Enter The Dragon at Butterfly), and some carry explicit fall-risk warnings. Bolt spacing and how much power you need are separate questions.
Finding partners and gear
The two homestays at Hữu Lũng — Mao Homestay and Duc Bungalow — are themselves where climbers gather. VietClimb built both for local families, in 2018 and 2020, as community-run accommodation, with the money going straight to the hosts. How long you stay, who you eat with and who you climb with happen naturally there.
VietClimb also runs two-day-one-night group trips and one-to-one instruction, including a guide, gear, transfers, meals and access fees. If you need instruction or want someone to lead you, asking what the service actually covers is more practical than taking your chances in the community.
The gear list is short, but two things have to be decided first:
- Rope length: the longest route at Hữu Lũng is the 96 m, five-pitch Chúc Sức Khỏe, so a 60 m rope is not enough. The longest deep-water line at Lan Hạ is 150 m. Operators on Cat Ba and at Lan Hạ both rent ropes, but the supply is limited, so write ahead to ask.
- Number of quickdraws: theCrag's advice for Hữu Lũng is more than 20, more than 25 for the longest routes, and 30 if you are opening two routes at the same time. The 15 the guidebook lists is usually not enough.
How to read this series
- To plan a trip directly: start with the Hữu Lũng main valley, then the east side and new sectors.
- To mix an island into the trip: read Cat Ba, especially the bolt notes on Fisher Valley and Hidden Valley.
- To try deep-water soloing: read Lan Hạ and check the tide before deciding whether to go.
What this series does not cover
- The content is compiled from theCrag, VietClimb, Cat Ba Climbing, Langur's Adventures, the Bureau of Consular Affairs and evisa.gov.vn; the author has no first-hand experience on the ground. Every "recommendation" is an option judged from the sources, not a tested one.
- Prices, schedules, access fees, the way hosts charge and the tides all change. The body marks the month each item was checked (mostly October 2026), so re-check the operator and crag pages before you leave.
- Most of the closure and ban information comes from database-level descriptions, and there is no original Vietnamese government notice to check them against. Treat them as a "do not go now" signal, not as a legal text.
- Quốc Oai, Ben Beo, Ha Long Bay itself, Ngũ Hành Sơn in Da Nang and Mai Châu are not in the five guides, because they are either closed or banned, or because the amount of information online is too thin to support a guide you can actually follow.
References
- theCrag: Vietnam
- theCrag: Hữu Lũng
- theCrag: Cat Ba Island
- theCrag: Vịnh Lan Hạ
- theCrag: Quốc Oai
- VietClimb: Outdoor Trips
- VietClimb: Mao Homestay, Duc Bungalow
- Cat Ba Climbing, Langur's Adventures
- Bureau of Consular Affairs: Vietnam visa and entry requirements
- Vietnam e-Visa, Arrival declaration PAI
- Wikipedia: Hanoi (climate table)
- Mountain Project international grade comparison
- Vietnam Climbing guidebook