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Aid climbing means moving up by standing on gear you place yourself. Big wall and aid climbing covered what it is, how to read A and C grades, and how a team splits the work. This post is about the gear in your hands: aiders, daisies, fifi hooks, ascenders, pulleys and progress-capture pulleys. For each one: what it is, how to use it, where it most often goes wrong, and which models are on sale now.
Hauling systems have their own post, Hauling on Multi-Pitch Routes; here pulleys are covered only for uses other than hauling.
Before reading, you should be able to lead on trad gear and build anchors, and you should have read Multi-pitch basics and Self-rescue basics. By the end you should be able to practise a round of aid leading and a stretch of jugging on two ascenders close to the ground, and know which pieces to buy first. Taiwan has no big walls, but every one of these moves can be drilled close to the ground at Long Dong, and the gear is on sale in Taiwan.
The one thing to remember: most of this gear holds body weight only
Open the instructions and most aid gear says the same thing. BD's daisy chain and etrier instructions say aiders are designed to hold body weight only. Metolius's Easy Aider and Easy Daisy instructions say body-weight use only, back them up with full-strength attachments, and do not belay off them.
BD's QC Lab article puts it most plainly: when aid climbing properly, the rope is always in the system. Aiders let you stand, daisies and fifis let you hang, and what catches a fall is the climbing rope and your belayer. Almost every rule in the sections below follows from that.
| Gear | What it does | How many | Can it take a fall? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aider | Stand in it to move up | 2 for leading (some use 4); 1–2 for jugging | No, body weight only |
| Daisy / adjustable daisy | Hang yourself from a piece or ascender | 2 | Sewn daisies no; Petzl's dynamic-rope model only below fall factor 1 |
| Fifi hook | Hang from the top of an aider for a short rest | 1 | No |
| Ascender | Move up a fixed rope | 2 | Never create a fall onto one |
| Pulley | Redirect rope, reduce friction | Depends | Depends on the model's rating |
| Progress-capture pulley | Lock the rope so it can't slip back | 1–2 | Rated about 4 kN breaking strength in progress-capture mode |
Aiders: leading one step at a time
Two shapes
Aiders come in two shapes. A traditional etrier has steps made of webbing folded into offset triangles, like the BD Six-Step Etrier or the Metolius 5 Step Aider. A ladder has a strand of webbing on each side and every step held open between them, like the BD StepUp 6 or the Metolius 8 Step Aider.
Fish's aider FAQ says a ladder's steps always stay open, so your foot goes in easily, and there's a handle at the top to grab. Lightweight models made of narrow webbing are lighter and pack small, but Fish says that on a long big wall, or in soft shoes, they might dig into the arch of your foot. If you only step on gear once or twice on a free route, a pocketable model like the Metolius Pocket Aider is enough.
The basic lead cycle
Chris McNamara's SuperTopo lessons start on low-angle terrain, with no daisies and no fifi, just two aiders:
- Place a piece and clip an aider directly to the piece, not to a carabiner already on it, which would cost you reach.
- Walk up until your waist is level with the piece (or higher if you can).
- Take the other aider and clip it to the next piece.
- Move across, unclip the lower aider, and clip it to the same spot on your harness every time so you can find it next time.
- Clip the rope to the piece you just left, then walk up until your waist is at its carabiner.
This list leaves out testing. Every time you move onto a new piece, bounce test it first, as described in the next section.
On vertical or overhanging ground, McNamara's second lesson adds a move between steps 2 and 3: if you need it for balance, hook your fifi into the carabiner at the top of the aider and, if you can, step one step higher, so the fifi is tensioned below your waist and pulls you into the wall.
Bounce test: step down first
Before committing to a piece, bounce test it. In his lesson on placing gear, McNamara states the goal plainly: generate enough force to mimic a small fall. His method:
- Put one foot in the aider on the piece you're testing and keep the other foot in the aider on the previous piece.
- Build up in three stages: light, medium, heavy. Bounce harder than you think.
- Look down, not at the piece. If it pulls, it will hit you in the face.
Climbing.com's Topstep tip and Andy Kirkpatrick stress the same point: once you've placed a new piece from the top steps, step down at least one step before you test, so the impact is smaller if the new piece blows. Don't test while standing in the top steps.
Top-stepping and reach
The higher you stand, the higher you can place the next piece, and the fewer pieces the pitch needs. Kirkpatrick says the core of top-stepping is tension: a solid connection between your waist and the piece. A fifi only stays on under tension, and if you lose focus you fall. That's why Climbing.com says not to fully trust the fifi and to back it up with a short quickdraw from your belay loop to the same piece.
Climbing.com's "A game of inches" adds two points: skip the easy nose-level placements and reach as high as you can; and clip U-stem cams at the bend in the cable, not the sewn runner, which is where the rope goes.
One aider or two? McNamara's kit list has two aiders; Fish says the standard is two pairs (four aiders); Kirkpatrick, in Pounding Steel, suggests trying one, two, three and four before settling. For your first practice, start with two.
Daisies and adjustable daisies: for hanging, not for anchoring
Sewn daisies: never one carabiner in two pockets
A traditional daisy chain is a sling sewn into many pockets, and the danger is the stitching. BD's QC Lab explains that if you clip one carabiner into both the end loop and a middle pocket to shorten the daisy, you may end up with the carabiner clipped only across the pocket's bar tack, as weak as about 500 pounds (about 2.2 kN). It's close to a 50/50 chance which way it lands.
So there are just two rules:
- To shorten, clip a second carabiner into the middle pocket. Never clip one carabiner into two pockets. As Alpinesavvy puts it, you need two lockers unless the daisy is fully extended.
- Never fall on a daisy, and never climb above a piece while clipped to it with one. In Personal Anchor Systems Explained, BD says daisy pockets are typically 2–5 kN and ripped one after another in drop tests. A daisy is not a screamer and not a PAS for anchoring yourself at a belay.
Adjustable daisies: what most people use now
Alpinesavvy says most aid climbers find an adjustable daisy works better: pull the webbing with one hand to bring yourself in to the piece, no pocket changes, no mis-clipped pockets. But adjustable doesn't mean stronger, and ratings vary a lot:
| Model | Build and adjustment | Rating | What the maker says |
|---|---|---|---|
| Metolius Easy Daisy | Webbing with an aluminium buckle, 99 g | 1.3 kN | Body weight only; unweight it before extending; never clip the release loop or the tail |
| Yates 550 Adjustable Daisy | Webbing with a cam buckle, 6 oz | 5 kN | Can be girth-hitched to the harness |
| BD Speedaisy | Cord with an aluminium clamp, 180 g, adjustable under load | Body weight only | Not a personal anchor system |
| BD Speedfi | Adjustable daisy with an integrated steel fifi, 195 g | Body weight only | Same as above |
| Petzl DUAL EVOLV ADJUST | 9.0 mm dynamic rope, two arms, 15–150 cm, 315 g | EN 17520 | Designed for aid climbing; only where the potential fall factor is below 1 |
Petzl's dynamic-rope lanyards are a different kind of product: they meet EN 17520 for personal belay lanyards. Petzl's page says the EVOLV ADJUST made from 2025 on must still be combined with another means of belaying (the climbing rope) when used for progression in aid climbing, and can be used alone only at the belay. The pre-2025 version is not personal protective equipment, its static strength is below the 15 kN the UIAA requires, and it must never be used alone.
For what EN 17520 actually tests, this EDELRID Knowledge Base video from 6:00 explains: a lanyard must survive three fall factor 2 drops, the first with a peak force of no more than 10 kN, and an adjustable model may slip no more than 50 mm under 1.3 kN. From 7:00 they warn that a lanyard modified by swapping in your own section of rope no longer meets the standard.
This is a manufacturer channel; the video is dubbed from German and the English captions are a translation. It tests slings and dynamic-rope lanyards, not sewn daisies.
Where the daisy attaches to your harness
Sources disagree. McNamara and Climbing.com's steep jugging tip girth-hitch daisies through the tie-in points, not the belay loop; Petzl's instructions for the DUAL EVOLV ADJUST put it on the belay loop; Alpinesavvy says either is fine. BD cites an accident that shows one more risk: a daisy girth-hitched to the belay loop for a long time can wear through the loop where you can't see it.
Attach yours the way its instructions say, and undo the girth hitch regularly to look at the belay loop and webbing underneath.
Fifi hooks: for short rests
A fifi hook is a small metal hook on your harness that you hook into the carabiner at the top of an aider, so you can let go with both hands and pull your hips in to the wall. McNamara says it should be about four inches (about 10 cm) long once girth-hitched, so that standing in the third step of a standard etrier you can just hook the carabiner at the top.
Opinions on it run in opposite directions. McNamara says try not to use a fifi, and if you do, rest only on a carabiner, not on a daisy; Climbing.com's Topstep tip calls it crucial for moving your feet up quickly and keeping your hips close to the wall. Both agree that a fifi only stays on under tension, and that you should back it up with a short quickdraw while hanging on it.
Two practical tweaks: Alpinesavvy suggests tying a thin cord to the fifi so you can pull down on it to lever the hook off when it's stuck under load; and many climbers now use an adjustable fifi such as the BD Speedfi instead.
Models: the Petzl FIFI is steel, 38 g, NT$680 on Petzl Taiwan (in Chinese); the BD Fifi Hook is 22 g and rated for body weight only.
Ascenders: climbing a fixed rope
Three kinds
Petzl's catalog splits ascenders into three groups:
- Handled ascenders: what you use for jugging on a big wall, always as a pair. For example the Petzl ASCENSION and BD Index.
- Chest ascenders: worn on your chest, like the Petzl CROLL S. Common in caving and rope access single-rope technique (SRT), less so on big walls; Kirkpatrick advises learning with two handled ascenders rather than an SRT frog system.
- Emergency ascenders: very light, carried as a spare, like the Petzl TIBLOC (35 g).
Ascenders are certified to EN 567, which, as Petzl points out, includes no fall test. That's why you must never have slack above an ascender or fall onto one.
How to rig two ascenders
This is the most common setup:
- Top ascender in your dominant hand, with a daisy to your harness. Climbing.com's jugging tip says it should be about 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) shorter than your arm's reach, so your elbow is still slightly bent at full extension. You sit on this ascender to rest.
- Bottom ascender carries the aider you stand in to push yourself up. It also has a shorter daisy to your harness as a backup.
- Clip a carabiner through the hole at the top of the top ascender, around the rope. This is how HowNOT2's big wall guide does it, and Climbing.com says to do it on traverses. The Petzl ASCENSION instructions put it this way: load the device parallel to the rope, and if you can't avoid loading it at an angle, secure the rope with your lanyard connector so the ascender can't slip on the rope.
- Use auto-locking carabiners. Climbing.com warns that a screwgate can unscrew while you jug.
- Tie backup knots at intervals (see the next section).
Simplified. Some climbers hang the aider on the top ascender, or one on each; follow the system you were taught.
How tight the bottom daisy should be is where two Climbing.com tips disagree: one says a few inches shorter than your forearm, the other says keep 6–8 inches of slack and never let it go tight, treating it purely as a backup. They agree on the top daisy.
How to move
- Low-angle or vertical: HowNOT2's big wall guide says you can simply walk up the rope with your weight on your feet, hardly sitting on the top ascender.
- Overhanging: you sit every single move. McNamara says first check the top daisy isn't too long, so that sitting on the top ascender puts no weight on your arm; put your foot in the second or third step of the aider on the bottom ascender. Having a foot in both the top and bottom aiders is the fastest way to tire yourself out.
- Over a lip: take the top ascender off, pass it over the lip and clip it back on, or pull out from the rock with both ascenders and pop the top one up a few centimetres. Before removing either ascender, make sure you're clipped to a backup knot.
Belgian big wall climber Siebe Vanhee shows how he jugs, filmed on El Capitan: the long daisy goes to the right-hand ascender, set so the elbow stays slightly bent; two foot loops, the left a little shorter than the right; and an adjustable daisy clipped to the top ascender. On vertical ground he keeps the ascenders close to his chest and takes small steps, using his legs rather than his biceps.
It's only a minute and a half, and it's his preferred method; he says himself there are a million ways to jug. It doesn't cover backup knots or traverses. For overhanging ground, see the next video in the series: sit into the top ascender first, take the right foot out of its loop, and push up with one leg and one arm.
Backup knots: two points on the rope at all times
Kirkpatrick's rule: ascenders pop and carabiners unclip themselves, so always have two points of contact with the rope; before removing your top ascender to pass an obstruction, clip into a backup knot or the anchor, and never hang from a single ascender. Petzl also says a single ascender is not trustworthy.
Tie a backup knot roughly every 5–7 m, closer on traverses and overhangs: a figure 8 or overhand on a bight, clipped to your harness with a locker. (Alpinesavvy says about every 5 m; Climbing.com says every 20–25 feet, about 6–7.5 m.)
Being tied into the end of the rope isn't enough. The 2005 report on a fatal accident on the Tangerine Trip in Accidents in North American Climbing recalls that in 1980 Walter Bertsch fell a full rope length while jugging and died, even though his lead line caught him.
Traverses: where jugging goes wrong most
In his lesson on cleaning traverses, McNamara says cleaning a traverse is sometimes more dangerous than leading: ascenders loaded at an angle can twist off the rope, and almost every case of someone coming off their jumars has happened on a traverse.
Accidents in North American Climbing has several:
- Zodiac, 1992: cleaning rope that ran off at 35–40°, the climber's ascenders came off while he reset the top one, and he fell about 100 feet. Ranger John Dill's analysis: pushing an ascender upward with its open side flat against the rock, rough spots on the wall can catch the safety catch and open it.
- Mescalito: with the daisy too short and the rope turning 45°, the top ascender was pulled off the rope. The report says that after putting an ascender on the rope, push it parallel to the rope and visually check that the cam and safety catch are fully seated.
How to clean a traverse:
- Tie in short: tie a backup knot and clip it to your harness as soon as you enter the traverse.
- Clip a carabiner through the top ascender's top hole, around the rope, so it can't be pulled off sideways (Climbing.com's steep jugging tip).
- If it's too flat, re-aid it: McNamara says ascenders aren't designed for near-horizontal traverses and can shred or even break the rope there. Move your aider and daisy onto the pieces and go piece by piece, as if leading.
- Lower out at pendulum points: for a short swing, pull some rope from the tail, pass it through the fixed point, clip it back to your harness and lower yourself out on it. Another method described by Alpinesavvy uses a dedicated 5–6 mm cord about 5 m long and a Munter hitch; you can only lower yourself half the cord's length.
Never fall onto an ascender
An ascender's teeth bite into the sheath. Fall onto one with slack above it and the teeth strip the sheath. In Petzl's test, an 80 kg dummy taking a fall factor 1 on 8 mm low-stretch rope produced 5.4 kN, cut the sheath and damaged the core. Their conclusion: 50 cm can make the difference between an "average" fall and a "severe" one. Hence the instructions: don't climb above the ascender or the anchor, keep the rope taut, and avoid any shock load near the anchor.
From 0:40, EDELRID Knowledge Base drops an 80 kg sandbag onto their toothed Spoc: far from the anchor, there's enough rope to absorb the fall and no damage; with the sandbag level with the redirect and 0.5 m of slack, the sheath tears and 2 of 10 core strands break; with 2 m of slack, the rope is cut.
This tests a pulley-type toothed device, not a handled ascender, but the teeth bite the sheath the same way. It's a manufacturer channel testing its own product, dubbed from German.
Ascender models
| Model | Weight | Rope diameter | Standard | Taiwan price (checked 2026-10-24) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Petzl ASCENSION | 165 g | 8–13 mm | EN 567, UIAA | NT$3,000 (Petzl Taiwan); NT$2,700 (Shanshui, Mabu Valley) (in Chinese) |
| BD Index | 199 g | 8–13 mm | EN 567 | NT$2,970 (Tianlan, in Chinese) |
| Kong Futura Hand | 125 g | 9–11 mm | EN 567, EN 12841/B | — |
| CAMP Turbohand Pro | 198 g | 8–13 mm | EN 567; EN 12841/B on 10–13 mm semi-static rope | — |
OutdoorGearLab's 2024 ascender review picks the BD Index as best overall for its trigger-style lever, which you can open with thumb or index finger; OutdoorGearLab says it's especially handy at the start of a pitch, when there's no weight on the rope below the ascender. The ASCENSION is easier to find in Taiwan, sold as left- and right-hand models. Either way, buy one of each hand.
Pulleys: uses other than hauling
Pulleys redirect rope and cut friction. Hauling uses them, covered in Hauling on Multi-Pitch Routes; the first place you're likely to need one is rescue. Self-rescue basics covers when you'd need to raise someone; this section only covers the pulley side.
Petzl's mechanical advantage page gives the example: if you can pull 20 kg at most with bare hands, a 3:1 system lets you raise 60 kg, but to raise it 1 m you pull 3 m of rope. That's the ideal; real pulleys range from about 50% to 98% efficiency. The lower the efficiency, the more of your pull goes into fighting friction.
Even within one brand, efficiency varies a lot:
| Model | Weight | Efficiency | Rope diameter | Strength | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Petzl PARTNER | 56 g | 91% | 7–11 mm | — | Light; NT$1,900 on Petzl Taiwan |
| Petzl FIXE | 90–98 g | 71% | 6–13 mm | 23 kN | Fixed side plates, no ball bearing, low efficiency |
| Petzl RESCUE M | 158 g | 95% | 6–13 mm | 36 kN | For rescue |
| Petzl SPIN L1 | 290 g | 95% | 7–13 mm | 36 kN | With swivel |
The pulley standard is EN 12278 (see the certification column for each model in Petzl's catalog). A light pulley plus the progress-capture pulley below is enough to build a 3:1 rescue system; learn how to rig it on a course.
Progress-capture pulleys: pulls one way, won't slip back
What it is
A progress-capture pulley is a pulley plus a toothed cam: rope runs freely one way and the teeth grip it the other way. Petzl Taiwan calls it a "one-way stopping pulley," and Taiwanese shops also call it a "one-way pulley" (for example Eamkevc, in Chinese).
| Model | Weight | Efficiency | Rope diameter | Breaking strength as a progress-capture pulley | Taiwan price (checked 2026-10-24) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Petzl NANO TRAXION | 53 g | 91% | 7–11 mm | 4 kN | NT$3,800 list, NT$3,040 on sale (Petzl Taiwan) |
| Petzl MICRO TRAXION | 85 g | 91% | 7–11 mm | 4 kN | NT$3,980 (Petzl Taiwan); NT$3,580 (Eamkevc, in Chinese) |
| Petzl PRO TRAXION | 295 g | 95% | 8–13 mm | 4 kN | — |
| Edelrid SPOC | 60 g | 92% | 7–11 mm | — | — |
The Micro's cam can be locked open to turn it into a plain pulley (HowNOT2's TRS guide). The PRO TRAXION is bigger and heavier, mainly for big-wall hauling.
What Petzl says you may use it for
Petzl's MICRO TRAXION product page lists crevasse rescue, hauling, self-rescue, and use as an emergency ascender. The instructions give a working load of 5 kN and breaking strength of 15 kN as a pulley, but a breaking strength of only 4 kN as a progress-capture pulley; when ascending a rope with it, don't climb above it or the anchor, and keep the rope taut.
Two more things Petzl spells out:
- It is not a belay device. Petzl's warning page says the MICRO and NANO TRAXION are not belay devices, a 50 cm loop of slack forms very quickly, and one very worn rope failed completely in their tests.
- Petzl does not recommend self-belayed toprope soloing on a fixed rope. Petzl's tech tip says no Petzl device has been designed for self-belayed climbing, though certain ascenders may be used for it by experts. If you do it, use two systems, ideally two different devices (for example a NANO and a MICRO), so you don't make the same mistake twice, such as forgetting to engage the cam on two MICROs. The same tip warns that rope stretches about 10% under load, so on a 50 m route there's a groundfall risk in the first 5 m. Lead rope soloing isn't covered by that tip at all.
For the wider risks of climbing alone, see Free soloing and rope soloing. The same TRS guide points out an easy mistake to make: with the Micro's cam locked open it's just a pulley. Always sit on the system on the ground once before you start to check that it catches.
Slack means a stripped sheath
From 1:06, HowNOT2 hangs a 200-pound rock on a Micro Traxion: with no slack at all it's about 2 kN and nothing happens; with slack, making it a fall factor 1, the sheath is torn off and two core strands break. The description gives 4.67 kN, the same order as Petzl's 4 kN breaking strength. They then use an EDELRID G-Screamer to keep the force to about 4 kN (4.05 kN measured).
One rock, very few samples. EDELRID was involved in this episode and brought in Tommy Caldwell to introduce the G-Screamer; the description links to HowNOT2's own shop. At 0:44 he paraphrases Petzl as saying it's fine as long as there's no slack; for Petzl's own wording, see the instructions above.
Putting together your first kit
From least to most, depending on what you want to do:
Just the odd step on a free route (A0, short aid sections)
- One light aider, such as the Metolius Pocket Aider, or the 7-step WALLSTEP ladder sold by Petzl Taiwan (145 g, NT$2,600, in Chinese).
- One short quickdraw to clip yourself close to the piece.
Learning to jug, to follow on a big wall
- Two handled ascenders (one per hand): BD Index or Petzl ASCENSION.
- Two adjustable daisies, or one Petzl DUAL EVOLV ADJUST (NT$3,500 on Petzl Taiwan, in Chinese).
- One or two aiders on the bottom ascender.
- Three or four auto-locking carabiners, plus a GriGri as a backup. Kirkpatrick recommends a GriGri as a backup that moves up with you.
Leading aid
- Two aiders (decide later whether you want four). OutdoorGearLab's 2024 aider review picks the Yates Big Wall Ladder as best overall and the Metolius 5 Step Aider as best value.
- Two daisies or adjustable daisies: Climbing.com's Topstep list has two 140 cm daisies.
- One fifi hook, plus a 15 cm quickdraw to back it up.
- One light pulley and one progress-capture pulley, kept for rescue.
All the Petzl gear mentioned above (ascenders, DUAL EVOLV ADJUST, FIFI, WALLSTEP, progress-capture pulleys) is listed on Petzl Taiwan's site.
Practising in Taiwan
Taiwan has no big walls, but every move here can be drilled close to the ground first.
- The lead cycle: Climbing.com's big wall guide suggests starting with clean aid (no hammer) on short cracks. At Long Dong, pick a short crack you can already free climb, keep a top rope on, and aid it piece by piece until stepping down before every bounce test is automatic.
- Jugging on two ascenders: rig a fixed line on a top-rope route and start from the ground. Practise rigging, sitting, tying backup knots, and the changeover from ascending to rappelling halfway up.
- Traverses: find a rope that runs off at an angle and practise the top-hole carabiner and tying in short. This is where accidents happen most, so start near the ground.
Inspection and retirement
- Ascenders and progress-capture pulleys: the Petzl ASCENSION instructions say not to use one with missing or worn teeth; mud or foreign objects in the cam can stop it gripping.
- Daisies and aiders: Metolius says replace them when the webbing is worn; BD warns that long-term girth hitches wear where you can't see. Undo and look after every use.
- After a shock load: if an ascender or progress-capture pulley has taken a shock load, check the rope for sheath damage first.
For everything else, see Inspecting, caring for and retiring climbing gear.
Practice questions: five scenarios
Answers are below each question. Think it through first.
1. You want to shorten your sewn daisy a little, so you clip the carabiner already in the end loop into a middle pocket as well. Is that OK?
Answer
No. The carabiner may end up clipped only across the pocket's stitching, which BD says can be as weak as about 2.2 kN, and it's roughly a 50/50 chance. To shorten, clip a second carabiner into the middle pocket; one carabiner only ever goes in one loop.
2. You're in the top step of your aider and have just placed a cam. You want to bounce test it hard from right there.
Answer
Step down at least one step first. Climbing.com and Kirkpatrick both say not to test from the top steps: if the new piece pulls, the higher you're standing, the bigger the impact on the piece below. Look down while you test, not at the cam.
3. You're cleaning rope that runs off at about 40°. The bottom ascender is stuck below a piece, and you want to take the top ascender off, pass the piece and put it back on.
Answer
Before removing either ascender, tie a backup knot below and clip it to your harness (tie in short). When you put it back on, push the ascender parallel to the rope and look to check the cam and safety catch are fully closed, and clip a carabiner through the top hole around the rope. If it's too flat, re-aid it instead. In the Zodiac (1992) and Mescalito accidents, ascenders came off in exactly this situation.
4. A friend says they use a Metolius Easy Daisy to anchor themselves at belays, because it adjusts so easily.
Answer
The Easy Daisy is rated at 1.3 kN for body weight only; Metolius says never use it as your sole attachment; BD says daisies are not personal anchor systems, and Metolius says a PAS is safer than a daisy at the belay. At a belay, use a PAS or clove the climbing rope. Petzl's DUAL EVOLV ADJUST meets EN 17520 and can be used alone at the belay, but still only where the fall factor is below 1.
5. You want to toprope solo at Long Dong on a single Micro Traxion on a fixed rope.
Answer
Petzl does not recommend self-belayed climbing and has no device designed for it; if you do it, use two systems, ideally two different devices such as a NANO and a MICRO. Before starting, sit on it on the ground to check the cam bites, and remember the rope stretches about 10% under load, so there's a groundfall risk in the first few metres. Keep slack out of the system: as a progress-capture pulley the Micro Traxion is rated only 4 kN breaking strength, and HowNOT2 stripped the sheath at about 4.7 kN in a fall factor 1.
Next steps
Aid and jugging are core big wall skills. Go back to Big wall and aid climbing to see where they fit in a team's routine, or read Self-rescue basics to put pulleys and progress-capture pulleys to work in rescue.
Further viewing: gear-testing and instruction channels
- HowNOT2: run by Ryan Jenks. It started in 2016 as highline safety instruction and grew into breaking climbing, caving and canyoneering gear, plus the Bolt Busters series that pulls bolts out of real rock. Its value is in the cases beyond the rated number: knots, wear, old gear, bad placements. Limits: most tests are slow pulls on a home-built rig with one to three samples, and Ryan himself calls it entertainment, not science; the channel is backed by an online gear shop, and some tested items are sold there.
- Hard Is Easy: run solo by a climber who signs as Ben, a former software developer. After watching a hard catch slam a climber into the rock in Tonsai, Thailand, he designed his first experiment; the channel now focuses on experiments and physics explanations about belaying, ropes, carabiners and belay devices, with several recent episodes filmed in Mammut's lab. Limits: most experiments are his own design, not EN/UIAA standard tests.
- EDELRID Knowledge Base: launched in 2025 by the product and education team at the German manufacturer EDELRID. Pull, drop and sharp-edge tests in their lab, with kN figures. Limits: a manufacturer channel, mostly showing its own products.
References
- How To Big Wall Climb: Leading 1 – Low Angle Terrain (Chris McNamara, SuperTopo)
- How to Big Wall Climb: Leading 2 – Vertical and Overhanging Terrain (SuperTopo)
- How to Big Wall Climb: Leading 3 – Placing Gear (SuperTopo)
- How to Big Wall Climb: Following 2 – Vertical and Overhanging Terrain (SuperTopo)
- How To Big Wall Climb: Following 4 – Traversing Terrain (SuperTopo)
- Tech Tip: Aid Topstep Mania (Climbing.com)
- Tech Tips: Aid — A Game of Inches (Climbing.com)
- Learn This: How to Rope Jug (Climbing.com)
- Learn This: Efficient Jugging in High-Angle Terrain (Climbing.com)
- How to Climb a Big Wall (Climbing.com)
- Top Stepping (Andy Kirkpatrick)
- Moving Up and Down Fixed Ropes (Andy Kirkpatrick)
- Pounding Steel (Andy Kirkpatrick)
- UK Nose Training (Andy Kirkpatrick)
- QC Lab: Daisy Chain Dangers (Black Diamond)
- QC Lab: Personal Anchor Systems Explained (Black Diamond)
- Daisy Chain & Etrier instructions MM5825 (Black Diamond, PDF)
- Easy Aider / Easy Daisy instructions (Metolius, PDF)
- All about sewn pocket daisy chains (Alpinesavvy)
- Add a release loop to your fifi hook (Alpinesavvy)
- Rope ascending with the Petzl Traxion (Alpinesavvy)
- Lowering out? Consider using a designated cord (Alpinesavvy)
- Using the EVOLV ADJUST lanyard (Petzl)
- Using only one ascender (Petzl)
- Ascending the rope in self-rescue: take care when approaching the anchor (Petzl)
- ASCENSION instructions (Petzl, 2025 edition, PDF)
- MICRO TRAXION instructions (Petzl, PDF)
- MICRO TRAXION product page (Petzl)
- Belaying a second with the MICRO TRAXION = danger (Petzl)
- Self-belay: solo climbing with one or two fixed ropes (Petzl)
- How to calculate mechanical advantage (Petzl)
- Petzl Sport 2026 spring/summer catalog: ascenders, pulleys
- Petzl Taiwan (in Chinese)
- Big Wall Bible: Ascending (HowNOT2)
- TRS Guide (HowNOT2)
- The Best Ascenders (OutdoorGearLab, 2024)
- The Best Aiders (OutdoorGearLab, 2024)
- Aider FAQ (Fish Products)
- Fall on Rock, Ascenders Detached from Rope, El Capitan (Accidents in North American Climbing 1993)
- Fall on Rock, Failure to Backup Ascenders, Tangerine Trip (Accidents in North American Climbing 2005)
- Fall on Rock, Mistake With Ascenders, Mescalito (Accidents in North American Climbing 2011)
- Don't break your rope (HowNOT2, YouTube)
- Big wall tips and tricks: How to jug ! (Siebe Vanhee, YouTube)
- Big wall tips and tricks: How to jug in steep terrain! (Siebe Vanhee, YouTube)
- The Risk of Rope Clamps when Belaying or Simul-Climbing (EDELRID Knowledge Base, YouTube)
- Are certified self belay slings really better? (EDELRID Knowledge Base, YouTube)
- Big wall and aid climbing
- Multi-pitch basics
- Self-rescue basics
- Free soloing and rope soloing
- Inspecting, caring for and retiring climbing gear