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Hauling is a small multi-pitch skill that gets overlooked: the leader trails an extra thin line from the back of the harness, and at the anchor uses it to pull the pack up, so the second climbs without one.
The video below is Akiichiban (5.10c, 8 pitches) on Jūichimen-iwa at Mizugaki-yama, Japan. From the 4-minute mark you see a small haul bag and a pink thin line on the ground, and the leader sets off with the line. At 4:49 the caption reads 荷上げ (Japanese for hauling), the pack goes up the rock, and the second follows without it. The whole move takes a few seconds and you can't see how the anchor is rigged. This post takes those few seconds apart.
Before reading, you should already be able to swap leads and build anchors, and have read Multi-Pitch Basics and Building Anchors. Progress-capture pulleys get a full section in How to Use Aid Climbing Gear; for choosing the pack itself, see Multi-Pitch Climbing Backpacks.
The first half covers light hauling on free multi-pitch routes; the second half covers big walls. By the end you should be able to run one full cycle close to the ground at Long Dong: lead with the tagline, haul at the anchor, and have the second release the bag.
When to haul and when to carry
More hauling is not better, and the sources disagree:
- For hauling: Jeff Achey at Climbing.com says putting the big cams, approach shoes, water and storm gear in a small haul pack can let both leader and second climb a number grade harder. The cost is about 10 minutes per haul, an extra hour every six pitches; on a route longer than 10 pitches done in a day, hauling may be too slow.
- Conditional: VDiff Climbing says hauling usually only pays on terrain steeper than 80 degrees with few obstacles and no loose rock; otherwise carry it.
- Avoid it if you can: Andy Kirkpatrick writes in an old article that hauling should be avoided where possible: more often than not it becomes a time-consuming nightmare that takes more effort than climbing with the pack on.
EDELRID's single-rope multi-pitch video marks each pitch on the topo as "carry" or "haul": the first pitch is not steep and has ledges, so the second carries; pitches two and three are steep, so they haul on a tagline; the last pitch eases off, so they carry again. That is the most practical rule: decide pitch by pitch, not for the whole route.
This is a manufacturer channel and all the gear is theirs; belaying the second on a Spoc at 170–240 s is EDELRID's own method and outside the scope of this post.
| Terrain on this pitch | Suggestion |
|---|---|
| Vertical or overhanging, clean face or crack | Haul |
| Chimney or squeeze where a pack jams | Haul, or drop a sling and pull the pack up just for that bit |
| Low angle, ledgy, fourth class | Second carries |
| Big traverse | Carry; if you must haul, leave a longer tail so the second can lower the bag out |
| Loose rock, parties below | Carry; the bag will knock rocks down |
If your pack holds only a litre or two of water and a jacket, there is a third option: no pack at all, with the gear clipped to your harness. HowNOT2 and Brent Barghahn climb six pitches at Red Rock that way, though the whole video promotes Avant products.
What a light hauling kit includes
| Item | Common choices | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Tagline | 60–65 m, 6–8 mm static cord, e.g. Petzl PUR LINE 6 mm, Maxim 7 mm, Sterling 6 mm TRC, Edelrid Rap Line 6 mm, Beal Back Up Line | All low-stretch; never belay or lead on them |
| Progress-capture pulley | Petzl MICRO TRAXION, NANO TRAXION, EDELRID SPOC; a very light bag can go hand over hand | A foot haul needs two |
| Bag | A small haul bag (BD Wall Hauler 40, Metolius Sentinel) or a climbing pack with a maker-rated haul loop | A regular pack gets shredded in one or two outings; see Choosing a haul bag |
| Connection | Two lockers, or two opposed carabiners | Never a single non-locker between line and bag |
| Docking sling | 60 cm sling | Hangs the bag on the anchor when it arrives |
bergundsteigen, the journal of the German, Austrian and Swiss alpine clubs, interviewed Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher about their long Alpine routes: they mostly climb on a single rope and haul on a thin static tagline; a lighter pack goes up by hand on a single Micro Traxion, with no ascender or foot loop. They also say a proper haul bag is best, because it is far tougher than a rucksack.
Static line, or a dynamic rope for hauling? Achey says never use a skinny dynamic double rope as a tagline: it stretches too much to pull rappels and is dangerous over edges if you ever have to ascend it; he recommends a 65 m, 6–8 mm static line. Kirkpatrick writes from the UK, where one strand of a half-rope system is often used to haul. Achey's objections are about pulling rappels and climbing the line; if your tagline will double as a pull cord or might need to be ascended in an emergency, choose static.
Ultra-thin HMPE cord has extra limits. PUR LINE 6 mm is HMPE, stretches less than 2%, and 65 m weighs just 1.3 kg. But Petzl's instructions say it absorbs no energy and must not be used for belaying; HMPE also melts at 140°C, lower than nylon, so keep it away from friction heat. Petzl lists TIBLOC, BASIC, ASCENSION, MICRO TRAXION and NANO TRAXION as compatible for hauling with it.
Which pulley to buy: the MICRO TRAXION is the usual choice, and Petzl lists hauling among its intended uses. If you already own one, start with it; buy a second only when you want to practise foot hauling.
| Item | Specs | Petzl Taiwan price (2026-10) |
|---|---|---|
| MICRO TRAXION | 85 g, rated 91% efficient, 7–11 mm rope | NT$3,980 |
| NANO TRAXION | 53 g, rated 91% efficient, 7–11 mm rope | NT$3,040 (sale) |
| PUR LINE 6 mm | 65 m, 1.3 kg | NT$11,500 |
Real-world efficiency is lower than rated. Short Guys Beta Works pulled a 22.7 kg load through a load cell with nine setups: a bare carabiner redirect came out around 52%, the SPOC around 77%, the Micro Traxion around 79%. One measurement each on one rope, but the point is clear: without a pulley, half your effort goes into friction.
The harness haul loop: BD's QC Lab article says the haul loop on the back of a harness only has to hold the weight of a tagline, and you must never tie in, belay or anchor with it. You clip the tagline there while climbing; the bag's weight always ends up on the anchor, not on you. VDiff adds a caution about clipping the tagline to a gear loop: if the line snags, the gear loop can break.
Before you leave the ground: prepping the bag and line
- Haul clean. Achey's rule: stow or remove the waist belt and shoulder straps, and never tie anything to the side of the bag; if something has to hang, hang it below. Kirkpatrick adds: clip the hip belt around the back of the pack, because buckles love wedging in cracks, and keep hard objects off the fabric, which they will grind through in seconds.
- Tie the line to a maker-rated haul loop, with two lockers or two opposed carabiners, and keep the knot close to the bag. Petzl's hauling page suggests a cut-off plastic bottle over the knot to reduce abrasion.
- Don't tie the bag at the very end. Achey clove-hitches the bag about 4–5 m from the end, so the second has a tail to ease the bag out on traverses instead of letting it swing. Petzl's video instead leaves as much tail as possible and ties the bag on with a bowline.
- Pre-thread the pulley. In Petzl's PUR LINE demonstration (2023), the line is threaded through the TRAXION before leaving, with an overhand knot behind it as a stopper, and the whole unit clipped to the harness, ready to drop onto the anchor.
- Clip the tagline to the haul loop on your harness, and flake it on the ground away from the lead rope so the two don't tangle. A 6 mm cord tangles easily; Alpinesavvy recommends a rope bag or stuff sack.
At the anchor: hauling step by step
Start with the diagram. The line runs from the bag up through the pulley at the anchor, and the free end is in your hand; the very end of the line is clipped back to the anchor so you can't drop the whole thing.
Simplified. With two bolts, Alpinesavvy suggests hanging the pulley from one bolt rather than the master point; follow the system you were taught.
The steps (combining Achey, the Petzl video and Alpinesavvy's foot haul):
- Clip yourself in and finish the anchor.
- Hang the pulley, as high as you can. With two bolts, Alpinesavvy suggests one bolt rather than the master point. Test it with a pull: the bag side should come up and not slide back when you let go.
- Clip the end of the tagline to the anchor before unclipping it from your harness. Do it the other way round and one slip drops the whole line.
- Pull in slack until you reach the bag, then call "haul is on". When voices don't carry, Achey uses three sharp tugs on the line.
- The second unclips the bag and calls "haul away". On a traverse, they lower it out on the tail until it hangs under you.
- Pull. Hand over hand for a light bag; for anything heavier, switch to a foot haul (next section).
- Dock first, then unload the pulley: clip the bag to the anchor with the 60 cm sling, then ease off the pulley so the sling takes the weight. Alpinesavvy suggests girth-hitching the sling through both the haul loop and a shoulder strap and clipping it in before you open the pack, which makes dropping it much less likely.
- Set up the tagline for the next leader: in Barghahn's video, once the bag is docked he stacks the line from the bag end, like coiling a lead rope, and keeps it in a loose quickdraw so it pays out smoothly behind the next leader.
At the anchor, haul first or belay the second first? Achey and VDiff haul before belaying: if the bag sticks, the second is still below to free it. Alpinesavvy pulls the bag a few metres off the lower anchor, belays the second, and hauls once they are climbing, so the leader isn't belaying and hauling at once. Both exist so the leader doesn't have to belay and haul at once. If you do need to do both, use an auto-locking device in guide mode, which is what Kirkpatrick describes. If the haul is likely to knock rocks down, Achey says let the second climb clear of the danger zone first.
Foot hauling: your hands only take in rope
If the bag is any heavier, or there are many pitches to go, hauling with your legs saves a lot. In Achey's words, arms, not legs, give out first on long climbs, so don't waste them on hauling.
The method comes from Avant's Brent Barghahn, as written up by Alpinesavvy:
- Hang the first progress-capture pulley on the anchor, as in the diagram.
- Clamp a second progress-capture pulley onto the free end of the line, with a 60 cm sling hanging from it as a foot loop.
- Add a carabiner on the anchor as a redirect, so the free end goes up from the pulley and back down to the foot loop.
- Push down on the foot loop; your hands only take in the rope that comes through. You can switch feet.
Alpinesavvy says a 1:1 like this works fine for about 15 kg. In his original video, Barghahn says you can haul up to about 30 pounds (about 14 kg) fairly comfortably this way. He also says he is not a guide and this is his own experience.
Petzl's PUR LINE video shows two more options: a NANO TRAXION on your tie-in point so you can sit down on the line, or a redirect on the anchor so you sink your body weight into it, in which case you stay clipped to the anchor with a dynamic lanyard.
What the second does
The second isn't just waiting to climb:
- Release and lower out: before calling "haul away", check the bag isn't hooked on anything. On a traverse, ease it out on the tail. Siebe Vanhee's short clip on El Cap shows lowering out a light pack; he notes heavy bags need another method.
- Mind the bag while climbing: if it hangs up under a roof or in a crack, push it free as you pass.
Kirkpatrick describes two variations. On loose ground, clip the bag about a metre up one of the second's two ropes so it travels with them (a protected haul). On low-angle or complex ground, the second does most of the hauling while climbing (an assisted haul).
Where it goes wrong
The bag knocks rocks down. Achey, Kirkpatrick and VDiff all warn about it. A hauled bag dislodges rocks onto the second or parties below. On loose pitches, carry.
Yanking a stuck bag. Kirkpatrick puts it bluntly: don't yard on it, because what comes loose may be a block landing on your partner's head. Japan's Ishida Tozanjuku recorded a failure on a course: the line dropped into a crack, and the bag caught under a roof only about 15 cm deep and would not come up. Their takeaway was to understand why bags snag: if the line runs in a crack, the bag gets pulled into the crack.
Shock-loading the pulley. Petzl rates the toothed cam on the Micro, Nano and Pro Traxion at 4 kN breaking strength. Kirkpatrick also says no ascender or cam should see more than 4 kN: first the sheath strips, then the rope is cut. HowNOT2 hung a 200 lb rock on a Micro Traxion: with no slack it held at about 2 kN; dropped with some slack, the impact reached 4.67 kN, the sheath stripped and two core strands broke. A stuck bag that suddenly pops free, or slack left in the line while docking, is exactly that situation.
The test is about belaying a person on a Micro Traxion, with one rock and few samples, and EDELRID was involved. The hauling lesson is the same: keep the line tight.
Rope-on-rope friction. Petzl's rope-care page says rope-on-rope or rope-on-webbing friction is forbidden. Flake and run the tagline separately from the lead rope, and don't let a loaded tagline slide over it.
Dropping the bag. The moment you take it off your back is when it falls: clip first, then unclip.
Rappelling with the bag. When bailing or descending, EDELRID's video stuffs the tagline into the bag and hangs the bag from the belay loop below the rappel device.
Big walls: the bag becomes a 30–40 kg haul bag
Everything above is about a small pack that makes the second's life easier. A big-wall haul bag holds days of water, food and sleeping bags, about 3–4 litres of water per person per day (see Big Wall and Aid Climbing), and becomes too heavy to pull by hand.
Petzl recommends several bags of 30–40 kg rather than one 80 kg bag: they often see inexperienced parties set off with a huge bag and spend two or three hours hauling a single pitch.
What the gear changes to
| Item | Light hauling | Big wall |
|---|---|---|
| Haul line | 6–8 mm static cord | 9–10 mm static rope, 60 m |
| Progress-capture pulley | Micro/Nano Traxion | Petzl PRO TRAXION (295 g, 95% efficient, "designed for hauling heavy loads"; NT$7,300 at Petzl Taiwan) |
| Bag | Small haul bag or climbing pack | Haul bag: BD Wall Hauler 40/70/140 L, Metolius Sentinel 46 L up to El Cap 157 L |
| Swivel | Optional | Petzl SWIVEL, BD Rotor, Kong Dancer |
| Docking | 60 cm sling | Docking cord: about 5 m of 7–8 mm cord, doubled |
| Lowering out | Tail of the tagline | Extra tail on the haul line, or a separate lower-out line |
Do you need a swivel? Petzl and Alexa Flower at Climbing.com treat it as standard, since it keeps a spinning bag from twisting the line into a kinked mess; SuperTopo's Chris McNamara says he rarely uses one, and finds it useful mainly on low-angle, traversing routes like The Nose. If you are buying a DMM swivel, check DMM's recall notice first: a Director connector parted at the swivel, and the listed models must be withdrawn immediately.
The 1:1 body haul
This is the basic big-wall method. Combining Petzl, Flower and McNamara:
- Hang the PRO TRAXION on the anchor at roughly eye level.
- Clip the end of the haul line to the anchor with a locker. If the system fails, the bag's weight drops onto the anchor rather than the hauler.
- Clip a quickdraw from the master point to the haul line right behind the pulley as a backup. Make sure the PRO TRAXION is locked and not upside down; Kirkpatrick calls the upside-down mount the classic PRO TRAXION error.
- Put an ascender on the free end of the haul line, connected to your harness with a short tether.
- Stand with a foot on each side of the line, sit down hard to lift the bag with your body weight, then stand and slide the ascender back up.
Petzl says this body-weight method only suits bags up to about 30–40 kg, and the hauler must stay attached to the anchor with a rope throughout. The New Zealand Alpine Team's demonstration puts their own working limit at about 40 kg and also shows the cut-bottle knot protector.
They use two Micro Traxions, which is the team's own practice; for hauling limits on the Micro Traxion, Petzl's instructions take precedence.
When the bag outweighs you or the terrain isn't steep enough, add mechanical advantage. The 2:1 common on big walls is called the Z pull, and it is not the 3:1 Z-drag from your rescue course; Alpinesavvy explains its origin and rigging.
Mechanical advantage loses some in practice. VDiff says a 3:1 is three times easier on paper but closer to 2.5 in reality. Terrain changes the ratio you need too: a bag you can body-haul on overhanging rock may need a 2:1 on a slab.
Docking and lowering out
Docking: when the bag arrives, don't pull it tight against the pulley, where it jams and is hard to release. Hang it on the anchor with a docking cord, then release the pulley's teeth so the cord takes the weight. Alpinesavvy describes the cord as about 5 m of doubled 7–8 mm cord tied with a Munter-mule, which can be released under full load; don't use a sewn daisy chain, which is very hard to unclip on a traversing pitch.
Lowering out: once the next leader calls "ready to haul", the second releases the mule on the docking cord and lowers the bag on the Munter until it hangs below the upper anchor, then calls "haul away". The bag doesn't swing across and slam the rock. Throughout the lower-out the docking cord stays in your hand on the Munter; only once the bag's weight is fully on the haul line and checked do you remove it. That is Kirkpatrick's rule: never undock the bags until they have been fully lifted off the belay and the last person has checked that everything is loading correctly.
Space hauling: fastest and most dangerous
In space hauling, one climber hangs free on the other side of the haul line as a counterweight to lift the bag. Kirkpatrick calls it always the fastest way to lift a big load: every step up in ratio also adds time.
He tells two accident stories. In one, a haul line cut over an edge and sent the bags to the bottom of El Cap; he suspects it was 9 mm accessory cord rather than real static rope, and says that had the partner been space hauling, he would have died. In the other, a friend counter-hauling found that once the bag cleared a few friction points it was much lighter than them, and they plummeted down the wall until the bag hit the belay.
So the counterweight climber must always be tied into a separate rope, ideally the dynamic lead rope, clipped to the anchor (ideally not the master point), with 10–20 m of slack, so a failure stops there. SuperTopo's McNamara says to leave at least 20 feet. This is a technique to learn on a course, not from an article.
In Higher Education (quoted by Alpinesavvy), Kirkpatrick calls hauling potentially one of the most dangerous parts of big-wall climbing; he teaches climbers to treat their bags as dangerous creatures in their charge, like a great white shark or a rhino, kept calm through paranoia, foresight and heavy respect for the damage they can do.
Last, a regulation: Yosemite prohibits throwing anything off a cliff, and the park says haul bags thrown from walls have nearly struck climbers on the ground and have been mistaken for falling climbers several times.
Choosing a haul bag: small bags and big-wall bags
Everything above is about how to haul; this section is about what to haul. First, three kinds of bag:
- A climbing pack with a maker-rated haul loop: haul it through one or two hard pitches and carry it the rest of the way. See Multi-Pitch Climbing Backpacks.
- A small haul bag (about 25–55 L): for hauling the whole of a free multi-pitch route, or hanging under the main bag on a big wall as a sub-bag.
- A big-wall haul bag (about 70–160 L): days of water, food and sleeping bags.
What to look for: six criteria
- Fabric. OutdoorGearLab's buying advice prefers polyurethane coatings (Metolius calls theirs Durathane): more abrasion resistant, and they don't get crackly with age the way vinyl (PVC) coatings do; vinyl is cheaper and lighter. bergundsteigen also advises against the cheaper versions.
- Two haul straps of different lengths. Haul on one and keep the other free, so you can open the bag while it stays on the rope. Current Metolius, BD, Edelrid and Climbing Technology bags all work this way.
- A carry system that stows or comes off. Achey says shoulder straps and waist belts snag, so tuck them away or remove them before hauling, and hang nothing off the sides.
- Seams. OutdoorGearLab says that in every haul bag failure they've seen, the sewn seams blew out first; Metolius welds its main seams.
- Opening. In a deep bag you have to climb half inside to reach the bottom; a roll-top or wide mouth helps. A full-length front zip is handy on a ledge and useless when the bag is hanging (Vertical Life's Edelrid KURT review).
- Drain hole and bottom attachment points. Rain collects in the bottom; the Metolius Half Dome and Fish Grade V have drain holes. Bottom points carry a sub-bag or a poop tube.
Sizing: OutdoorGearLab says one big bag hauls better on low-angle, traversing routes like The Nose, while two medium bags are easier to rotate on overhanging routes like Zodiac. bergundsteigen estimates that two people on a five-day route, at 4 litres of water each per day, end up with 60–70 kg, which is why Petzl suggests splitting it into several 30–40 kg bags.
Small haul bags
| Model | Volume | Empty weight | Features | Maker price | Reviews | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Metolius Mescalito Haul Pack | 24 L | 0.85 kg | Lighter Durathane, stowable shoulder straps, removable waist belt | USD 119.95 | — | A day route, hauling water and a jacket |
| Metolius Express Haul Pack | 39 L | 1.2 kg | Same, larger | USD 139.95 | — | A day route with approach shoes and big cams |
| Edelrid KURT HAULBAG 55 | 55 L | about 1.4 kg | Tarpaulin, whole carry system detaches, two haul loops of different lengths; PRO version adds a full-length front zip | EUR 140 | Vertical Life 2024: about half the weight of the BD Wall Hauler 40 | Bigger, and comfortable to carry |
| BD Wall Hauler 40 | 40 L | 1.99 kg | TPU coating, offset handles, roll-top | USD 219.95 | OutdoorGearLab 2024: 72, hard to clip things underneath | Tough, weight not a concern |
| Metolius Sentinel | 46 L | 2.1 kg | Durathane, welded main seams, stowable carry system; sold for short walls or as a sub-bag | USD 189.95 | OutdoorGearLab 2024: 85, but most people are better served by a bigger bag or a pack | Big-wall sub-bag, short walls |
| Climbing Technology AZIMUT / CRAGGY | 25–35 L / 40–50 L | 1.2 / 1.9 kg | PVC coating, two strap lengths, removable carry system | Not listed | — | Easy to find in Europe |
| Grivel Grand Cap 40 | 40 L | 1.5 kg | Tarpaulin, roll-top plus full-length front opening | EUR 170 (out of stock in Europe) | — | If you want front access |
Light, but not built for hauling: the Blue Ice Alpine Hauler weighs only 575 g, and Blue Ice itself says it is mainly for climbing with, hauled only through hard passages. Climbing.com's 2026 review counted six new holes after two low-angle pitches and concluded, "It's a backpack, not a haulbag."
Big-wall haul bags
| Model | Volume | Empty weight | Features | Maker price | Reviews |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Metolius Quarter Dome | 69 L | 2.3 kg | A larger Sentinel | USD 219.95 | OutdoorGearLab 2024: 81 |
| Metolius Half Dome | 125 L | 3.4 kg | Durathane, welded main seams, drain hole, lid pocket | USD 279.95 | OutdoorGearLab 2024 Best Overall (87), "the most common haul bag that you'll see on El Capitan" |
| Metolius El Capitan | 157 L | 3.6 kg | A larger Half Dome | USD 299.95 | OutdoorGearLab 2024: 84, found the long tube too big |
| BD Wall Hauler 70 | 70 L | 2.46 kg | TPU coating, offset handles, roll-top | USD 259.95 | OutdoorGearLab 2024 Best Buy (83); metal buckles kept loosening on the descent |
| BD Wall Hauler 140 | 140 L | 3.11 kg | Same line, sold for expeditions | USD 319.95 | OutdoorGearLab 2024: 78 |
| Climbing Technology ZENITH | 70–85 L | 2.7 kg | PVC coating, removable carry system, bottom cross-webbing for a sub-bag | Not listed | — |
| Edelrid LYNN HAULBAG 95 | 95 L | about 2.5 kg | Tarpaulin, foam lining against punctures; in Edelrid's professional line | EUR 240 | — |
Prices are list prices on each maker's site on 2026-10-24, not converted. The only haul bag group test from 2024 onwards is OutdoorGearLab's, and it covers only Metolius and BD; for other brands there is only maker data.
Which one
- Free multi-pitch, hauling one or two pitches: a climbing pack with a maker-rated haul loop; no need to buy anything else.
- Hauling a whole route: the Metolius Express 39 L is the lightest; for something bigger and comfortable to carry, the Edelrid KURT 55.
- A first big wall, one or two nights: BD Wall Hauler 70 or Metolius Quarter Dome; if you'll use it a lot, the Metolius Half Dome is the one most people use.
- Buying in Taiwan: in October 2026 the only listing found was the KONG Genius II (30 L, aimed at caving and rope access), on pre-order at Concordia. No Taiwan stock was found for Metolius, BD Wall Hauler, Edelrid or Climbing Technology haul bags, so in practice you order from abroad.
Route videos: hauling on real routes
Each of these four shows one situation. They are personal films, not tutorials: watch for when people haul and what happens; take system details from the manufacturer and instruction sources above.
The Grand Wall, The Chief, Squamish: a quick haul through the squeeze. After the Split Pillar comes a squeeze chimney, miserable with a pack on; the leader says he could drop a sling and just haul it up. This is the most common kind of light hauling: carry the pack all day and haul for just one or two pitches.
Petzl-sponsored; the hauling lasts about 30 seconds and the system isn't explained.
The Nose, Yosemite: lowering out and steadying the bag past a roof. At the top of pitch 5 (Sickle Ledge), the second lowers the haul bag off the ledge before the leader starts hauling. Around 9:40 the second says they'll hold the bag until it clears a small roof, or the wind will hang it up.
A long vlog; hauling appears in scattered clips.
Touchstone Wall, Zion: which side to dock, and sitting down to haul. At the top of pitch 1 he docks both bags on the left because the next pitch goes up and left, so they won't swing across his partner's line; at the next anchor they sit down to haul with body weight, and the wind carries the bag past a roof.
The wind clearing the roof was luck, not technique.
Lurking Fear, El Capitan: same channel as the opening video, 25 kg hauled solo. TAKEMOVIE rope-solos: he fixes the line, jugs it, then hauls a bag with three days of gear, about 25 kg, which takes 30 minutes. Around 13:50 he explains haul bags: the fabric is far stiffer than a regular pack, so it can be dragged up the rock, and the shoulder straps come off.
He calls himself an amateur; a solo fix-and-haul routine differs from a two-person team.
One more worth watching: Washington Column South Face, a pair's first big wall. Around 11:08 they find the bag won't move because the hauler was pulling the ascender down with his arms instead of clipping himself to it and using body weight. Hauling across low-angle ledges is also clearly much harder.
How to practise in Taiwan
Taiwan has no big walls, but every move in light hauling can be practised on the short multi-pitch routes at Long Dong:
- Start on the ground. At the base of the crag, rig an anchor, hang a pack on a tagline, and practise hanging the pulley, taking in slack, hauling by hand, foot hauling and docking. In his Climbing.com tech tip, Pete Zabrok recommends practising the 2:1 by hauling rocks at your local crag, and says he's not kidding.
- Pick a short, steep, clean pitch with nobody below, lead with the tagline, have the second release and lower out, and run the full set of calls once.
- Repeat until the anchor sequence is reflex: clip yourself, hang the pulley, clip the line's end, unclip from the harness, take in, call.
- For big-wall 1:1 body hauling, docking, lowering out and space hauling, take a big-wall course.
Practice questions
- You're climbing an 8-pitch route. Pitches 3 and 4 are overhanging cracks; the rest is low angle with ledges. Bring a tagline? Which pitches do you haul?
- Suggested answer: bring it. Haul on pitches 3 and 4 only and let the second carry elsewhere; hand the pack back to the second for pitch 5.
- At the anchor you unclip the tagline from your harness first, and it slips from your hand as you go to load the pulley. What happens, and what's the right order?
- Suggested answer: the whole line, and the bag below, may go. Clip the end of the line to the anchor first, then unclip it from your harness.
- Halfway up, the bag sticks. You yank it a few times, it suddenly pops free and drops a metre onto the Micro Traxion. What may have happened?
- Suggested answer: the toothed cam took a shock load and may have stripped the sheath. Stop, have the second climb up to deal with it, and inspect the line; next time don't yank a stuck bag.
- The next pitch is a big rightward traverse. How do you handle the bag?
- Suggested answer: with the bag tied 4–5 m above the tail, the second unclips it and lowers it out on the tail until it hangs below the upper anchor, then calls "haul away"; or have the second carry on this pitch.
- Your big-wall bag weighs about 45 kg, you weigh 60 kg, and the route is slabby. Will a 1:1 work?
- Suggested answer: the bag is above Petzl's 30–40 kg guideline and the terrain isn't steep, so a 1:1 will likely be a struggle. Split it into two bags or switch to a 2:1.
Further viewing: gear-testing and instruction channels
- HowNOT2: run by Ryan Jenks. It started in 2016 as highline safety instruction and grew into breaking climbing, caving and canyoneering gear, plus the Bolt Busters series that pulls bolts out of real rock. Its value is in the cases beyond the rated number: knots, wear, old gear, bad placements. Limits: most tests are slow pulls on a home-built rig with one to three samples, and Ryan himself calls it entertainment, not science; the channel is backed by an online gear shop, and some tested items are sold there.
- Hard Is Easy: run solo by a climber who signs as Ben, a former software developer. After watching a hard catch slam a climber into the rock in Tonsai, Thailand, he designed his first experiment; the channel now focuses on experiments and physics explanations about belaying, ropes, carabiners and belay devices, with several recent episodes filmed in Mammut's lab. Limits: most experiments are his own design, not EN/UIAA standard tests. The channel has no videos on hauling or progress-capture pulleys yet.
Update log
- 2026-10-24: Added a section on choosing a haul bag: six criteria, current small and big-wall models compared, and buying in Taiwan.
References
- How to Haul a Pack for Climbing (Climbing.com, Jeff Achey, 2023)
- Learn This: Efficient Hauling (Climbing.com, Alexa Flower, 2016)
- Tech Tip – Aid – 2:1 Hauling Ratchet (Climbing.com, Pete Zabrok, 2004)
- Hauling a bag: preparation and technique (Petzl; original page removed, 2023 Wayback copy)
- How to protect the rope? (Petzl)
- PUR LINE 6 mm product page and technical notice (Petzl)
- #PetzlTips - Raising the haul bag on a multi-pitch route with a PUR LINE (Petzl, 2023)
- MICRO TRAXION, PRO TRAXION, SWIVEL (Petzl); Taiwan prices from Petzl Taiwan (in Chinese, checked 2026-10)
- SPOC (EDELRID), Rap Line Protect Pro Dry 6 mm (EDELRID)
- Personal Escape Rope 7 mm (Maxim), 6 mm TRC (Sterling), Back Up Line (Beal)
- Wall Hauler 40, Wall Hauler 70, Rotor, QC Lab: Full Strength Haul Loops (Black Diamond)
- Best Haul Bags for Big Wall Climbing and buying advice (OutdoorGearLab, updated 2024-10)
- The Ultimate Edelrid Kurt 55L Haulbag Review (Vertical Life, 2024)
- The Alpine Hauler Is One of the Best Packs I've Used (With One Major Caveat) (Climbing.com, 2026)
- Haul Packs (Metolius), KURT HAULBAG 55, LYNN HAULBAG 95 (Edelrid), AZIMUT, CRAGGY, ZENITH (Climbing Technology), Grand Cap 40 (Grivel), Alpine Hauler (Blue Ice)
- Haul Bags (Metolius), Dancer (Kong)
- Important Safety Notice: Product Recall DMM Compact Swivel Units (DMM)
- Hauling – not just for big walls, Foot haul your pack on a multi-pitch, Drop-proof your pack, Haul bag rigging 101, The 2 to 1 "Z pull" haul, explained (Alpinesavvy)
- Hauling Your Rucksack, Rucksack Hauling Strategies (Andy Kirkpatrick; gear references are dated); Advanced Hauling (Andy Kirkpatrick, 2021)
- Basic Hauling Techniques for Multi-Pitch Trad, Big Wall Hauling Systems Explained (VDiff Climbing)
- Die Tagline – wie haule ich richtig?, How to Bigwall (2/3): Richtig Haulen (bergundsteigen, the journal of the German, Austrian, Swiss and South Tyrol alpine clubs; in German)
- 荷上げ失敗を考察 (Ishida Tozanjuku, 2018) (in Japanese)
- How to Big Wall Climb – Hauling, Managing the Belay, The Changeover, Gear 3: Haulbags, Hauling and Bivy Gear (SuperTopo, Chris McNamara; the site is often down for maintenance)
- Climbing Regulations (Yosemite National Park)
- Efficient Foot Hauling: Dealing with your Multi-Pitch Climbing Baggage (Brent Barghahn)
- Big wall tips and tricks: How to lower out a backpack ! (Siebe Vanhee, 2024)