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Koshizawa Buttress is an Okutama multipitch cliff where modest technical grades coexist with exposed approaches, older protection and sharp rock edges. This guide helps you decide whether it suits your team, when to visit and what to confirm about transport and the approach.
What kind of crag
The rock is chert (crag description); the readable ROCKTOPO inventory has 3 graded entries. Its scope differs from a complete guidebook.
Koshizawa Buttress is an Okutama multipitch cliff where modest technical grades coexist with exposed approaches, older protection and sharp rock edges.
CLIMBING-net and ROCKTOPO have different inventory scopes. A database count does not establish that every route is currently accessible. Sectors remain within this destination; choose the day’s objective and descent before planning equipment.
When to go
Choose a clear spring or autumn day for an initial visit; a November 2021 club report describes autumn multipitch practice. Summer humidity and winter daylight/ice change the plan. After rain assess crossings, fixed-rope passages and descent, not only the cliff surface.
Getting there
Public transport
Take the JR Ome Line to Hatonosu; check the JR East timetable for the return. Continue only by the approach confirmed with current local management; do not enter camp property or take obsolete shortcuts from old reports.
Driving
Drive along Ome-kaido to Hatonosu and continue from authorized public parking on foot. The forestry road, camp property and mountain trails have different ownership and damage histories; road access to one point does not clear an approach to the cliff.
Parking
Check current Hatonosu parking conditions rather than old free-parking or camp-fee reports. Keep homes and forestry entrances clear, and obtain current permission for any approach through camp property.
Rules before you go
A 2019 publisher notice requested self-restraint after typhoon damage. A 2021 club report used the Garden Camp approach; that visit does not establish 2026 permission. Confirm the entrance and crossings with local management or a qualified guide, and cancel if unresolved.
Sharp edges threaten ropes and some protection is old. Bring trad-protection, route-finding, multipitch belaying and retreat competence; hardest grades of 5.7–5.9 do not certify low risk, particularly with shared descents.
For a serious injury requiring medical help, call 119. The FDMA guide asks callers to give the location and landmarks. Save the local crag name, target sector and road access offline; ask your insurer whether the climbing style, search and rescue, treatment and repatriation are covered.
Routes by level
YDS and V-grade conversions follow the Mountain Project international grade comparison chart and are approximate; "approx." marks grades the sources give without a/b/c (such as 4 or 5+). The original grade is the one that counts.
The full graded ROCKTOPO table contributes 3 entries, supplemented by the linked public topo/MP rows. Original YDS or Japanese grades are retained; unlisted lengths/pitches remain unspecified. Obtain the current topo for descent and protection. Names shared by different sectors/grades remain separate. A listed route is not a current-access recommendation.
Beginner: up to 6a (YDS 5.10a and below)
Check protection style and the start even on lower grades; a low number does not make a first outdoor lead appropriate.
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 「左ルート」 | 5.7 (hardest) | 5.7 (hardest) | Not listed | 中央フェイス・左フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO、Source。 Multipitch。 A 2024 report describes wide climbing on pitch 2 and tangled descent ropes. |
| 「第一スラブ右上ルート」 | 5.8 (hardest) | 5.8 (hardest) | Not listed | 中央フェイス・左フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO、Record。 Multipitch。 Online record: report, A 2025 report highlights slippery rock and exposed traverses; modest grades do not imply forgiving falls. |
| 「途中から右ルートからの右の滑り台」 | 5.9 (hardest) | 5.9 (hardest) | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO、Source、Source。 Multipitch。 A 2025 report describes leading the final slide on Right Route; distinguish link-up variants. A 2012 retailer report describes the slide crux, sparse fixed protection and rope drag; check the exact link-up in the topo. |
Intermediate: 6a+ to 6c+ (YDS 5.10b–5.11c)
Distinguish face, crack and multipitch routes within this range. Choose a sector cluster and check the day’s rock conditions.
No graded routes were listed in the readable inventory for this band; that is not a claim about every route in the guidebook.
Advanced: 7a to 7c+ (YDS 5.11d–5.13a)
Near your limit, establish descent, cleaning and retreat options first. A trip report describes its author’s visit.
No graded routes were listed in the readable inventory for this band; that is not a claim about every route in the guidebook.
Expert: 8a and up (YDS 5.13b and up)
Allow separate project time for harder lines. A database entry does not certify a finished route or inspected protection.
No graded routes were listed in the readable inventory for this band; that is not a claim about every route in the guidebook.
Where to look things up
- JR East Hatonosu timetable: Ome Line in both directions.
- ROCKTOPO: public route data; obtain a complete topo and confirm the entrance.
Guidebooks: Grades and route counts here come mainly from online databases; the guidebook is the authority.
- Free Climbing Japan 100 Crags, volume 2: Makoto Kitayama, Yama-kei, 2019 expanded revised edition, Kanto, adding Gozen Iwa routes, Japanese. The publisher listing establishes edition and regional coverage. The paid interior topo was not accessed; older rules do not supersede current notices.