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Mitsutoge Byobuiwa is a multipitch training cliff near the summit, where the mountain approach and descent are part of the climbing day. This guide helps you decide whether it suits your team, when to visit and what to confirm about transport and the approach.
What kind of crag
The rock is agglomerate (crag description); the readable ROCKTOPO inventory has 76 graded entries. Its scope differs from a complete guidebook.
Mitsutoge Byobuiwa is a multipitch training cliff near the summit, where the mountain approach and descent are part of the climbing day.
CLIMBING-net and ROCKTOPO have different inventory scopes. A database count does not establish that every route is currently accessible. Sectors remain within this destination; choose the day’s objective and descent before planning equipment.
When to go
CLIMBING-net lists April–October. Elevation and wind call for insulation even in summer; afternoon storms affect both the mountain trail and multipitch descent. A hut’s year-round hiking description does not establish winter rock conditions.
Getting there
Public transport
For the Kawaguchiko-side trailhead, check Fujikyu Bus service days and timetables. The walk from Mitsutoge Station is a longer mountain approach. Choose the entrance around your climbing day; summit hiking times are not cliff-approach estimates.
Driving
Drive to the Kawaguchiko-side trailhead and continue on foot. Shikirakuen states that cars cannot reach the hut and it normally offers no transfers; exceptional jeep arrangements require prior consultation.
Parking
Use designated trailhead spaces and keep forestry roads, hut supplies and emergency access clear. Share cars on holidays and confirm current roads, trails and the climbing entrance with a hut.
Rules before you go
Face, crack and multipitch lines coexist; assess older protection and loose ledges rather than treating the cliff as fully bolted sport. Plan communication, passing parties and descent without sweeping ropes across ledges.
Mitsutoge Sanso publishes trail-specific notices, including the Haha-no-Shirataki approach. Check your actual entrance: a restriction on one trail is neither a whole-cliff closure nor clearance for another route.
For a serious injury requiring medical help, call 119. The FDMA guide asks callers to give the location and landmarks. Save the local crag name, target sector and road access offline; ask your insurer whether the climbing style, search and rescue, treatment and repatriation are covered.
Routes by level
YDS and V-grade conversions follow the Mountain Project international grade comparison chart and are approximate; "approx." marks grades the sources give without a/b/c (such as 4 or 5+). The original grade is the one that counts.
The full graded ROCKTOPO table contributes 76 entries, supplemented by the linked public topo/MP rows. Original YDS or Japanese grades are retained; unlisted lengths/pitches remain unspecified. Obtain the current topo for descent and protection. Names shared by different sectors/grades remain separate. A listed route is not a current-access recommendation.
Beginner: up to 6a (YDS 5.10a and below)
Check protection style and the start even on lower grades; a low number does not make a first outdoor lead appropriate.
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 「マントルレッジ」 | 5.5 | 5.5 | Not listed | 中央フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「直登カンテ」 | 5.5 (hardest) | 5.5 (hardest) | Not listed | 中央フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Multipitch。 |
| 「四段ハング」 | 5.5 (hardest) | 5.5 (hardest) | Not listed | 中央フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Multipitch。 |
| 「逆V字ハング」 | 5.5 (hardest) | 5.5 (hardest) | Not listed | 中央フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Multipitch。 |
| 「空間リッジ」 | 5.5 (hardest) | 5.5 (hardest) | Not listed | 中央フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Multipitch。 |
| 「V字ロック」 | 5.7 (hardest) | 5.7 (hardest) | Not listed | 中央フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Multipitch。 |
| 「羽鳥カンテ」 | 5.7 (hardest) | 5.7 (hardest) | Not listed | 中央フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Multipitch。 |
| 「中央カンテ」 | 5.8 (hardest) | 5.8 (hardest) | Not listed | 中央フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO、Source。 Multipitch。 A 2024mountaineering-school report praises the classic and notes natural protection on pitch 2. |
| 「岳ルート」 | 5.10a (hardest) | 5.10a (hardest) | Not listed | 中央フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Multipitch。 |
| 「一般ルート右」 | 5.4 | 5.4 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「サンドイッチ」 | 5.4 | 5.4 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「No.10.5クラッック」 | 5.4 | 5.4 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ホットドッグ」 | 5.5 | 5.5 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「一般ルート左」 | 5.5 | 5.5 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「一般ルート中央」 | 5.5 | 5.5 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「権兵衛チムニー」 | 5.5 | 5.5 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「リーダーピッチ」 | 5.5 | 5.5 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「観音ルート左」 | 5.6 | 5.6 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「オープンサンド」 | 5.6 | 5.6 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「観音ルート右」 | 5.6 | 5.6 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO、MP / topo、Source。 Face route。 Other source grade: 5.6。 Mountain Project gives2 stars from one vote and describes a crux start with old pitons. |
| 「クーロワール」 | 5.7 | 5.7 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「都岳連ルート」 | 5.7 | 5.7 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ジャムトースト」 | 5.7 | 5.7 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ガイドルート」 | 5.8 | 5.8 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「紅葉おろし」 | 5.8 | 5.8 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「コーリア・ルート」 | 5.8 | 5.8 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「さあてこれから」 | 5.8 | 5.8 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「バイパス」 | 5.8 | 5.8 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「大根おろし」 | 5.8 | 5.8 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「フレーク」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ララバイ」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「乱気流」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「日山協ルート」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「81年日山協ルート」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「No.18クラック」 | 5.2 | 5.2 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「No.20クラック」 | 5.4 | 5.4 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「No.16クラック」 | 5.4 | 5.4 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「No.14クラック」 | 5.5 | 5.5 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「No.19クラック」 | 5.5 | 5.5 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「No.15クラック」 | 5.5 | 5.5 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「十字クラック」 | 5.6 | 5.6 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「T字クラック」 | 5.6 | 5.6 | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「戸田クラック」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「セストグラディスト」 | 5.4 | 5.4 | Not listed | 左フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「鶴ルート」 | 5.5 (hardest) | 5.5 (hardest) | Not listed | 左フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Multipitch。 |
| 「亀ルート」 | 5.5 (hardest) | 5.5 (hardest) | Not listed | 左フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Multipitch。 |
| 「草溝ルート」 | 5.5 | 5.5 | Not listed | 東面フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「地蔵ルート左」 | 5.6 | 5.6 | Not listed | 東面フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「地蔵ルート右」 | 5.7 | 5.7 | Not listed | 東面フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「オフィズス左ルート」 | 5.8 | 5.8 | Not listed | 東面フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「草溝直上ルート」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | 東面フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「第一クラック」 | 5.5 | 5.5 | Not listed | 東面フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「オンサイト」 | 5.8 (hardest) | 5.8 (hardest) | Not listed | 東面フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Multipitch。 |
Intermediate: 6a+ to 6c+ (YDS 5.10b–5.11c)
Distinguish face, crack and multipitch routes within this range. Choose a sector cluster and check the day’s rock conditions.
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 「ビッグ マウス」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 中央フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「I go!」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | 中央フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ノーズ」 | 5.11c/d | 5.11c/d | Not listed | 中央フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ジャック」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 中央フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「ジャンプ オブ ジョイ」 | 5.10d | 5.10d | Not listed | 中央フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「岩が好き」 | 5.10d | 5.10d | Not listed | 中央フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「ゆきずり」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | 中央フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「ハングオーバー」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | 中央フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「ガババー」 | 5.11c | 5.11c | Not listed | 中央フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「中央カンテダイレクト」 | 5.10b (hardest) | 5.10b (hardest) | Not listed | 中央フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Multipitch。 |
| 「岳２」 | 5.11a (hardest) | 5.11a (hardest) | Not listed | 中央フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Multipitch。 |
| 「コウモリ」 | 5.11b (hardest) | 5.11b (hardest) | Not listed | 中央フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Multipitch。 |
| 「キーホール」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「そらまめ」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「JINJIN」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | 右フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「アパッチハング」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | 左フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ひとりよがり」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | 左フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ワントリックポニー」 | 5.10d | 5.10d | Not listed | 左フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「巨人ルート」 | 5.10b (hardest) | 5.10b (hardest) | Not listed | 左フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Multipitch。 |
| 「トラぺジアス」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | 東面フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「小森＝中山クラック」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 東面フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
Advanced: 7a to 7c+ (YDS 5.11d–5.13a)
Near your limit, establish descent, cleaning and retreat options first. A trip report describes its author’s visit.
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 「大道芸人」 | 5.12a | 5.12a | Not listed | 中央フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「よってたかって」 | 5.11d | 5.11d | Not listed | 中央フェイス | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
Expert: 8a and up (YDS 5.13b and up)
Allow separate project time for harder lines. A database entry does not certify a finished route or inspected protection.
No graded routes were listed in the readable inventory for this band; that is not a claim about every route in the guidebook.
Where to look things up
- CLIMBING-net: crag background, seasons and guidebook entry point.
- ROCKTOPO: Japanese names, sectors and original grades.
- Shikirakuen: Hut is near summit, inaccessible by ordinary car; no routine shuttle; exceptional jeep transfers by prior consultation.
- Mitsutoge Sanso: Hut publishes current trail-specific notices.
- Fujikyu Bus: Official bus route and timetable portal.
Guidebooks: Grades and route counts here come mainly from online databases; the guidebook is the authority.
- Free Climbing Japan 100 Crags, volume 3: Makoto Kitayama, Yama-kei, expanded revised edition, 2016 e-book release, Izu/Koshin, Japanese. The publisher listing establishes edition and regional coverage. The paid interior topo was not accessed; older rules do not supersede current notices.