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Mizunami Byobuiwa: Granite Cracks and Friction Faces | Japan Climbing Crags

Oct 26, 20261 min
TL;DRMizunami Byobuiwa offers granite cracks and friction faces, mainly autumn–spring. Respect private land and community parking; assess trad-protection skills alongside grades.

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Mizunami Byobuiwa combines granite cracks and friction faces, for climbers practising jams, wide cracks and precise footwork. This guide helps you decide whether it suits your team, when to visit and what to confirm about transport and the approach.

What kind of crag

The rock is granite (crag description); the readable ROCKTOPO inventory has 77 graded entries. Its scope differs from a complete guidebook.

Mizunami Byobuiwa combines granite cracks and friction faces, for climbers practising jams, wide cracks and precise footwork.

CLIMBING-net and ROCKTOPO have different inventory scopes. A database count does not establish that every route is currently accessible. Sectors remain within this destination; choose the day’s objective and descent before planning equipment.

When to go

ROCKTOPO lists October–April; the publisher’s directory favours autumn through spring. Sunny faces and shaded cracks can feel very different in winter: account for frost and wind. Summer is a poor starting point for a friction-focused trip.

Getting there

Public transport

Take the JR Chuo Line to Mizunami and arrange a rental or pickup, including the return. Check JR Central; a municipal bus network is not a crag shuttle.

Driving

Approach the Byobuyama area from Mizunami and use the climbing entrance in the current topo rather than a similarly named attraction. Drive slowly on local roads, reduce dust and yield to residents and work vehicles.

Parking

The local notice prohibits using or crossing community-hall parking/property. Share cars and use only currently permitted spaces; change plans if full.

Rules before you go

The 2017 local notice, reproduced by the publisher, identifies private land and prohibits tree cutting, collecting, fires, sleeping and improper parking. Check current JFA and on-site notices before departure.

Past one-day road-maintenance closures do not establish this year’s calendar. Trad routes require the ability to place and assess protection; gym face grades alone are not a selection method.

For a serious injury requiring medical help, call 119. The FDMA guide asks callers to give the location and landmarks. Save the local crag name, target sector and road access offline; ask your insurer whether the climbing style, search and rescue, treatment and repatriation are covered.

Routes by level

YDS and V-grade conversions follow the Mountain Project international grade comparison chart and are approximate; "approx." marks grades the sources give without a/b/c (such as 4 or 5+). The original grade is the one that counts.

The full graded ROCKTOPO table contributes 77 entries, supplemented by the linked public topo/MP rows. Original YDS or Japanese grades are retained; unlisted lengths/pitches remain unspecified. Obtain the current topo for descent and protection. Names shared by different sectors/grades remain separate. A listed route is not a current-access recommendation.

Beginner: up to 6a (YDS 5.10a and below)

Check protection style and the start even on lower grades; a low number does not make a first outdoor lead appropriate.

RouteGradeYDSLength / pitchesSectorNotes
「余裕のよっちゃん」5.85.8Not listedシスターズドームSources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「不安がいっぱい」5.10a5.10aNot listedシスターズドームSources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「有希子の初恋」5.10a5.10aNot listedシスターズドームSources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「エントランス瑞浪」5.65.6Not listed入口付近Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「わんぱくスラブ」5.85.8Not listed入口付近Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「瑞浪入門(左)」5.85.8Not listed入口付近Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「キッズスラブ」5.85.8Not listed入口付近Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「瑞浪入門(右)」5.95.9Not listed入口付近Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「水洗クラック」5.65.6Not listed入口付近Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「ウェルカムトゥー瑞浪」5.75.7Not listed入口付近Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「ウォーターシュート」5.95.9Not listed大岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ガバナンス」5.10a/b5.10a/bNot listed大岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ティータイム」5.85.8Not listed大岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「無名ルート」5.95.9Not listed大岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「福袋」5.10a/b5.10a/bNot listed大岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「大岩クルーズ」5.8 (hardest)5.8 (hardest)Not listed大岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Multipitch。
「エクササイズ」5.95.9Not listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ロンパールーム」5.95.9Not listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「モビィディック」5.10a5.10aNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「あんじゃない」5.55.5Not listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「あ~らよ!」5.85.8Not listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「新人クラック」5.95.9Not listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「秀則コーナー」5.95.9Not listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「アイキャッチャー」5.95.9Not listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「とっくりクラック」5.95.9Not listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「ナルトとサスケ」5.10a5.10aNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「Alternative」5.10a5.10aNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「感激」5.10a5.10aNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「ハッピィクラック」5.10a5.10aNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「サボテン」5.10a/b5.10a/bNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「ダーリンスラブ」5.10a5.10aNot listed桃割れ岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「インスピレーション」5.10a5.10aNot listed桃割れ岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ひばりチムニー」5.75.7Not listed桃割れ岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「アームロックききますか」5.10a5.10aNot listed桃割れ岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。

Intermediate: 6a+ to 6c+ (YDS 5.10b–5.11c)

Distinguish face, crack and multipitch routes within this range. Choose a sector cluster and check the day’s rock conditions.

RouteGradeYDSLength / pitchesSectorNotes
「熱いくちづけはもう嫌」5.11a5.11aNot listedシスターズドームSources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「グランプリ」5.11a5.11aNot listedシスターズドームSources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「思いやり」5.10b5.10bNot listedシスターズドームSources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「チョコレートチップ」5.10c5.10cNot listed入口付近Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「なんてったってアイドル」5.10b5.10bNot listed大岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「Dharma」5.11a5.11aNot listed大岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「クリスタルスラブ」5.11a5.11aNot listed大岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「アタックNo.1」5.10b5.10bNot listed大岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「ゾンビーフレーク」5.10c5.10cNot listed大岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「アダム」5.11b5.11bNot listed大岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「アストロドーム右」5.10b5.10bNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO、Record。 Face route。 Online record: report, A 2024 report gives5.10a rather than the database’s5.10b and notes sparse footholds.
「広場のコスラブ」5.10b5.10bNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「平成岩年(右)」5.10c5.10cNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「どんぐりの奇襲」5.10c5.10cNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「原住民」5.10c5.10cNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「平成岩年(左)」5.10c5.10cNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「イニシャルステップ大松ルート」5.10c5.10cNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「アストロドーム左」5.10c5.10cNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「カイン&アベル」5.10c/d5.10c/dNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「サリー」5.10d5.10dNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「先住民」5.11a5.11aNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「有希子の想い出」5.11b5.11bNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「どんぐり拾い」〈展望台・広場周辺・5.11b/c〉5.11b/c5.11b/cNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「エースをねらえ」5.10b5.10bNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO、Source。 Trad crack。 A 2024 club report calls it popular and describes thin-hand to offwidth climbing.
「優柔不断」5.10b5.10bNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「カエルの寝床」5.10c5.10cNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「イヴ」5.11c5.11cNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO、Source。 Trad crack。 A 2024 report identifies it as a signature finger crack at the viewpoint.
「独りぼっち」5.10b5.10bNot listed桃割れ岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「おしりクラック」5.10b5.10bNot listed桃割れ岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「ゆうこ&やよい」5.10c5.10cNot listed桃割れ岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「クールマイルド」5.10c5.10cNot listed桃割れ岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「とんがりネズミ」5.11a5.11aNot listed桃割れ岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「マルチプレイヤー」5.11b5.11bNot listed桃割れ岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。

Advanced: 7a to 7c+ (YDS 5.11d–5.13a)

Near your limit, establish descent, cleaning and retreat options first. A trip report describes its author’s visit.

RouteGradeYDSLength / pitchesSectorNotes
「どんぐり拾い」〈入口付近・5.12b/c〉5.12b/c5.12b/cNot listed入口付近Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「美少女」5.11d5.11dNot listed大岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「中央フリーウェイ」5.12a5.12aNot listed大岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ノア」5.12b5.12bNot listed大岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「H君のフェイス」5.12a5.12aNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ゲニウス」5.12a5.12aNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「ワイドマスター」5.12a5.12aNot listed展望台・広場周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。
「甘栗」5.12d5.12dNot listed桃割れ岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。
「栗きんとん」5.13a5.13aNot listed桃割れ岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。

Expert: 8a and up (YDS 5.13b and up)

Allow separate project time for harder lines. A database entry does not certify a finished route or inspected protection.

RouteGradeYDSLength / pitchesSectorNotes
「マロングラッセ」5.13b5.13bNot listed桃割れ岩周辺Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。

Where to look things up

  • CLIMBING-net: crag background, seasons and guidebook entry point.
  • ROCKTOPO: Japanese names, sectors and original grades.
  • Local access notice: Publisher reproduces local private-land rules; no community-hall parking or crossing; no fires or overnight stays.
  • JR Central: Mizunami station on JR Chuo Line.

Guidebooks: Grades and route counts here come mainly from online databases; the guidebook is the authority.

  • Free Climbing Japan 100 Crags, volume 4: Makoto Kitayama, Yama-kei, 2020 expanded latest edition, Tokai/Kansai, Japanese. The publisher listing establishes edition and regional coverage. The paid interior topo was not accessed; older rules do not supersede current notices.

References