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Mizunami Byobuiwa combines granite cracks and friction faces, for climbers practising jams, wide cracks and precise footwork. This guide helps you decide whether it suits your team, when to visit and what to confirm about transport and the approach.
What kind of crag
The rock is granite (crag description); the readable ROCKTOPO inventory has 77 graded entries. Its scope differs from a complete guidebook.
Mizunami Byobuiwa combines granite cracks and friction faces, for climbers practising jams, wide cracks and precise footwork.
CLIMBING-net and ROCKTOPO have different inventory scopes. A database count does not establish that every route is currently accessible. Sectors remain within this destination; choose the day’s objective and descent before planning equipment.
When to go
ROCKTOPO lists October–April; the publisher’s directory favours autumn through spring. Sunny faces and shaded cracks can feel very different in winter: account for frost and wind. Summer is a poor starting point for a friction-focused trip.
Getting there
Public transport
Take the JR Chuo Line to Mizunami and arrange a rental or pickup, including the return. Check JR Central; a municipal bus network is not a crag shuttle.
Driving
Approach the Byobuyama area from Mizunami and use the climbing entrance in the current topo rather than a similarly named attraction. Drive slowly on local roads, reduce dust and yield to residents and work vehicles.
Parking
The local notice prohibits using or crossing community-hall parking/property. Share cars and use only currently permitted spaces; change plans if full.
Rules before you go
The 2017 local notice, reproduced by the publisher, identifies private land and prohibits tree cutting, collecting, fires, sleeping and improper parking. Check current JFA and on-site notices before departure.
Past one-day road-maintenance closures do not establish this year’s calendar. Trad routes require the ability to place and assess protection; gym face grades alone are not a selection method.
For a serious injury requiring medical help, call 119. The FDMA guide asks callers to give the location and landmarks. Save the local crag name, target sector and road access offline; ask your insurer whether the climbing style, search and rescue, treatment and repatriation are covered.
Routes by level
YDS and V-grade conversions follow the Mountain Project international grade comparison chart and are approximate; "approx." marks grades the sources give without a/b/c (such as 4 or 5+). The original grade is the one that counts.
The full graded ROCKTOPO table contributes 77 entries, supplemented by the linked public topo/MP rows. Original YDS or Japanese grades are retained; unlisted lengths/pitches remain unspecified. Obtain the current topo for descent and protection. Names shared by different sectors/grades remain separate. A listed route is not a current-access recommendation.
Beginner: up to 6a (YDS 5.10a and below)
Check protection style and the start even on lower grades; a low number does not make a first outdoor lead appropriate.
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 「余裕のよっちゃん」 | 5.8 | 5.8 | Not listed | シスターズドーム | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「不安がいっぱい」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | シスターズドーム | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「有希子の初恋」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | シスターズドーム | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「エントランス瑞浪」 | 5.6 | 5.6 | Not listed | 入口付近 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「わんぱくスラブ」 | 5.8 | 5.8 | Not listed | 入口付近 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「瑞浪入門(左)」 | 5.8 | 5.8 | Not listed | 入口付近 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「キッズスラブ」 | 5.8 | 5.8 | Not listed | 入口付近 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「瑞浪入門(右)」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | 入口付近 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「水洗クラック」 | 5.6 | 5.6 | Not listed | 入口付近 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「ウェルカムトゥー瑞浪」 | 5.7 | 5.7 | Not listed | 入口付近 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「ウォーターシュート」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | 大岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ガバナンス」 | 5.10a/b | 5.10a/b | Not listed | 大岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ティータイム」 | 5.8 | 5.8 | Not listed | 大岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「無名ルート」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | 大岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「福袋」 | 5.10a/b | 5.10a/b | Not listed | 大岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「大岩クルーズ」 | 5.8 (hardest) | 5.8 (hardest) | Not listed | 大岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Multipitch。 |
| 「エクササイズ」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ロンパールーム」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「モビィディック」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「あんじゃない」 | 5.5 | 5.5 | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「あ~らよ!」 | 5.8 | 5.8 | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「新人クラック」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「秀則コーナー」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「アイキャッチャー」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「とっくりクラック」 | 5.9 | 5.9 | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「ナルトとサスケ」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「Alternative」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「感激」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「ハッピィクラック」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「サボテン」 | 5.10a/b | 5.10a/b | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「ダーリンスラブ」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 桃割れ岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「インスピレーション」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 桃割れ岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ひばりチムニー」 | 5.7 | 5.7 | Not listed | 桃割れ岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「アームロックききますか」 | 5.10a | 5.10a | Not listed | 桃割れ岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
Intermediate: 6a+ to 6c+ (YDS 5.10b–5.11c)
Distinguish face, crack and multipitch routes within this range. Choose a sector cluster and check the day’s rock conditions.
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 「熱いくちづけはもう嫌」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | シスターズドーム | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「グランプリ」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | シスターズドーム | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「思いやり」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | シスターズドーム | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「チョコレートチップ」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 入口付近 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「なんてったってアイドル」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | 大岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「Dharma」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | 大岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「クリスタルスラブ」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | 大岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「アタックNo.1」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | 大岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「ゾンビーフレーク」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 大岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「アダム」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | 大岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「アストロドーム右」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO、Record。 Face route。 Online record: report, A 2024 report gives5.10a rather than the database’s5.10b and notes sparse footholds. |
| 「広場のコスラブ」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「平成岩年(右)」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「どんぐりの奇襲」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「原住民」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「平成岩年(左)」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「イニシャルステップ大松ルート」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「アストロドーム左」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「カイン&アベル」 | 5.10c/d | 5.10c/d | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「サリー」 | 5.10d | 5.10d | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「先住民」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「有希子の想い出」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「どんぐり拾い」〈展望台・広場周辺・5.11b/c〉 | 5.11b/c | 5.11b/c | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「エースをねらえ」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO、Source。 Trad crack。 A 2024 club report calls it popular and describes thin-hand to offwidth climbing. |
| 「優柔不断」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「カエルの寝床」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「イヴ」 | 5.11c | 5.11c | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO、Source。 Trad crack。 A 2024 report identifies it as a signature finger crack at the viewpoint. |
| 「独りぼっち」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | 桃割れ岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「おしりクラック」 | 5.10b | 5.10b | Not listed | 桃割れ岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「ゆうこ&やよい」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 桃割れ岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「クールマイルド」 | 5.10c | 5.10c | Not listed | 桃割れ岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「とんがりネズミ」 | 5.11a | 5.11a | Not listed | 桃割れ岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「マルチプレイヤー」 | 5.11b | 5.11b | Not listed | 桃割れ岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
Advanced: 7a to 7c+ (YDS 5.11d–5.13a)
Near your limit, establish descent, cleaning and retreat options first. A trip report describes its author’s visit.
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 「どんぐり拾い」〈入口付近・5.12b/c〉 | 5.12b/c | 5.12b/c | Not listed | 入口付近 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「美少女」 | 5.11d | 5.11d | Not listed | 大岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「中央フリーウェイ」 | 5.12a | 5.12a | Not listed | 大岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ノア」 | 5.12b | 5.12b | Not listed | 大岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「H君のフェイス」 | 5.12a | 5.12a | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ゲニウス」 | 5.12a | 5.12a | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「ワイドマスター」 | 5.12a | 5.12a | Not listed | 展望台・広場周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Trad crack。 |
| 「甘栗」 | 5.12d | 5.12d | Not listed | 桃割れ岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
| 「栗きんとん」 | 5.13a | 5.13a | Not listed | 桃割れ岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
Expert: 8a and up (YDS 5.13b and up)
Allow separate project time for harder lines. A database entry does not certify a finished route or inspected protection.
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 「マロングラッセ」 | 5.13b | 5.13b | Not listed | 桃割れ岩周辺 | Sources: ROCKTOPO。 Face route。 |
Where to look things up
- CLIMBING-net: crag background, seasons and guidebook entry point.
- ROCKTOPO: Japanese names, sectors and original grades.
- Local access notice: Publisher reproduces local private-land rules; no community-hall parking or crossing; no fires or overnight stays.
- JR Central: Mizunami station on JR Chuo Line.
Guidebooks: Grades and route counts here come mainly from online databases; the guidebook is the authority.
- Free Climbing Japan 100 Crags, volume 4: Makoto Kitayama, Yama-kei, 2020 expanded latest edition, Tokai/Kansai, Japanese. The publisher listing establishes edition and regional coverage. The paid interior topo was not accessed; older rules do not supersede current notices.