A sandstone bouldering area in a eucalyptus wood about 600 m up in inland Trapani province, only cleared since 2016. Gripped wrote in 2025 that there are over 400 lines across seven sectors; 27crags lists 317 problems from Font 3 to 8A+, mostly with flat landings, good for beginners and families. The season is September/October to May, and the tree shade allows some climbing in summer. No public transport reaches it, so you need a car; after heavy rain the sandstone needs two or three days to dry, part of the area is on private land, and fires and camping are banned.
A small town 635 m up in the Madonie mountains of north-central Sicily, with three single-pitch sport crags around it: Gazzara at the mouth of a gorge (134 routes on theCrag), Cabeci in the woods (51) and short slabs on Rocca di Sciara above the town (23). That is about 200 routes from 4a to 8a, mostly grade 5 and 6. UKC calls it the best place in Sicily for summer climbing; Gazzara and Cabeci face north-east and have tree shade. We found no usable public transport, so you need a car: leave the A19 at Tremonzelli.
Two limestone mountains next to Palermo, the Sicilian capital. Monte Pellegrino sits inside the city; theCrag lists 327 routes, mostly single-pitch sport, and Valdesi and Roccia dello Schiavo are where climbing on the island began. Monte Gallo to the north rises straight out of the sea, with modern multi-pitch over 300 m long and the steep tufa crag of Bauso Rosso. The season runs from autumn to spring. Both mountains have a rockfall problem: a 2020 city ordinance bans entry to the P3/P4 rockfall zones during orange or red weather alerts and for 24 hours after heavy rain or a felt earthquake, and Via Monte Ercta, the usual road to Valdesi, is a closed road.
The province of Ragusa in south-east Sicily has more than a dozen limestone canyon crags, 726 sport routes in total on theCrag. The best known is Cava d'Ispica between Modica and Ispica, a canyon lined with ancient cave dwellings and tombs, where the Wild and Pernamazzone sectors run from 5a to 8b+. Go from autumn to spring; July and August are too hot. South-facing Pernamazzone gets the sun even in winter, while the east and north-east facing walls of Cava Gisana go into the shade after midday. Trains and buses reach Modica, but every crag sits at the end of a country lane, so you need a car. Cava d'Ispica is an EU Natura 2000 site, and you'll pass through farm gates: close them behind you.
A group of limestone peaks in the Nebrodi park in north-east Sicily, above the village of Alcara Li Fusi. The routes you can look up are concentrated on Rocca Calanna: Artino's Wall on its south side has 16 single pitches (3a to 7c+), and next to it are the 110 m Sognatori allo sbaraglio (6b) and the 180 m Il Paradiso all'improvviso (7c). The whole massif is in Zone A (full protection) of the park, where griffon vultures have been reintroduced and golden eagles nest. You need a car: leave the A20 at Sant'Agata di Militello, drive 15–17 km to Alcara, then up the mountain to park by the Artino trattoria.
Inland from Siracusa, in Sicily's south-east corner, Canicattini Bagni is a set of limestone canyons with 626 fully bolted sport routes on theCrag, more than 350 of them opened since 2017, from 5a to 8b. On the coast, Siracusa is Italy's best-known deep water solo (DWS) spot. Climb the canyons from autumn to spring; July and August are too hot, which is when the DWS comes into its own. Public transport reaches the town, but the canyons are spread out, so in practice you need a car. Swimming is banned in zone A of the Plemmirio marine protected area, so keep DWS to zones B and C or the city coast.
Sea-cliff limestone at the northwest tip of Sicily in the province of Trapani. theCrag lists 1,306 routes, mostly single-pitch sport, and the main wall, Scogliera di Salinella, runs about 4 km along the coast. The season is October to May; summer is too hot. El Bahira campground sits right next to the main cliff and most sectors are walkable from it; by public transport you change to a bus in Trapani or Palermo.