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Tavolara sits at the mouth of the Gulf of Olbia in north-east Sardinia, a long mountain island rising straight out of the water to about 565 m at Punta Cannone, its highest point. If you arrive in Olbia by ferry from mainland Italy, it's the first thing you see.
This post starts with one question: can you climb there right now? The island is largely private, hosts a NATO base and lies inside a marine protected area, and since 2025 the City of Olbia has issued a climbing ban. If you just want rock in Gallura, the granite bouldering nearby is in the Gallura post; for a season-and-region comparison across the series, see the series overview.
What kind of crag is it
Long multi-pitch on sea cliffs. climbingitaly lists 38 routes, tagged as trad multi-pitch, vertical walls, sun all day, approach by boat, sheltered from the mistral, and a winter crag. Routes are 85 to 350 m long and mostly 5a to 6b+, with nothing at 6c or above. There's also Traverso Infinito: "Traverso sul mare di oltre 1000 metri" (a sea traverse of more than 1,000 m).
A grey-zone history. Maurizio Oviglia's 2016 Planetmountain article says routes were climbed as early as the early 1970s. Germany's Bodo Habel added a few trad lines at the end of the seventies, then the Dolomites alpinist Giuliano Stenghel, often with Sardinian partners, opened most of the rest. The first modern bolted route was Affora sa nato by Enzo Lecis and Simone Sarti in the 1990s. Because the island is private and reaching the summit needs authorisation, guidebook author Gino Buscaini dropped it from Sardegna, and Oviglia left it out of his own Pietra di Luna series. His conclusion: "can one climb on Tavolara? Who knows… you decide".
Mostly your own gear. climbingitaly's route notes often say "Necessari chiodi e una serie completa di friends" (you need pegs and a full set of cams); some belays have a single ring and some you build yourself. Only Affora sa NATO is marked "Via interamente attrezzata" (fully equipped).
Who it suits. Multi-pitch climbers comfortable placing gear, building belays and dealing with loose rock, who can also live with the possibility that climbing is currently not allowed.
When to go
| Source | Season |
|---|---|
| climbingitaly | Sun all day, listed as a winter crag; sheltered from the mistral |
| Planetmountain: Affora sa nato | NW ridge of Punta Lucca, shaded until 2 p.m. in summer |
| climbingitaly | Scheduled ferries run only April to October |
Winter is good for climbing, but the scheduled boats stop in October, so in winter you'd need to charter one (see below).
Getting there
| Public transport | Driving | |
|---|---|---|
| To Porto San Paolo | From Olbia airport or port | From Olbia take the SS125 towards San Teodoro to Porto San Paolo |
| Onto the island | Boat from Porto San Paolo to Spalmatore di Terra at the western tip | Same |
| To the walls | Routes on the north side: walk from Spalmatore; routes on the south side: by boat, some starting straight from the boat | Same |
Public transport
Scheduled boats to the island leave from Porto San Paolo. Tavolara Traghetti e Gite runs the ferry and guided boat tours of the protected area from the port at Porto San Paolo, with timetables and fares on its website; phone and WhatsApp 349 4465993. climbingitaly says the Bertoleoni family runs the ferries from April to October, starting at 9:00 with the last return at 18:00, and advises double-checking at the port; for private transfers, including in winter, it gives +39 339 9000919. The two sources name different operators, so taking 2026 as an example, phone before you go.
Driving
Directions from Tavolara Traghetti e Gite: from Olbia take the SS125 towards San Teodoro / Nuoro; at the roundabout in Porto San Paolo turn left down Viale P. Nenni towards the sea, then right onto Via Molara and follow it to the car parks at the harbour.
From the landing to the walls
Trekking Tavolara, a local guiding outfit, describes the approach to Affora sa nato: from the beach at Spalmatore di Terra follow the low coastal cliff east, join a wide path past a scree slope and old lime kilns, climb a juniper-wood ladder ("Scala 'e Fustes"), then head north-east for about 20 minutes to the start. climbingitaly says Stenghel's routes on the south side are approached by boat, and some have to be started straight from the boat.
Rules to know before you go
The 2025 climbing ban. The City of Olbia's official news item of 14 May 2025 says mayor Settimo Nizzi signed an order banning climbing activities on Tavolara "se non ai soggetti in possesso della qualifica di guida alpina e della specializzazione di arrampicata sportiva, esclusivamente a scopo di studio e scientifico": the only exception is mountain guides with a sport-climbing specialisation, and only for study or research. The reasons given were landslide hazard rated high (Hg3) and very high (Hg4) on all the island's slopes, and an accident on the "Ferrata degli Angeli" on 3 May 2025 that took 14 mountain rescue technicians, a coastguard patrol boat and a helicopter.
Then limited in time. SassariToday reports that this was order no. 28 of 13 May 2025; on 19 May the mayor issued a correction limiting the ban to 30 September 2025, and said a municipal regulation for the island's trails would be drafted in the autumn for the council to approve. Local guiding company Climbing Sardinia likewise announced it would not run summit or climbing trips until 30 September 2025. (Secondary: SassariToday and Climbing Sardinia; I couldn't find the text of the correcting order.)
Status in 2026 unknown. I found no renewal, new regulation or revocation after 30 September 2025 (checked October 2026). Local guide websites were still advertising the summit and Affora sa nato in 2026, but that isn't evidence that it's allowed. Check with the City of Olbia before you go, or go with a registered local mountain guide.
Private land. SassariToday says about 90% of the island belongs to the Marzano family, including the land crossed by the summit trail; climbingitaly says Punta Cannone and Punta Lucca belong to the Marzano family, "who is not very enthusiast of climbers". Oviglia's 2016 advice was to stick to the access paths shown on the topo and not enter private property.
NATO military zone. SassariToday says the eastern half of the island has been a NATO radio-communications base since 1962, a "zona militare strettamente off-limits" (strictly off-limits military zone); climbingitaly also says the north-east side is a military base and barred.
Marine protected area. The waters around Tavolara are part of the Tavolara – Punta Coda Cavallo marine protected area. The managing body says that in zones B and C anchoring is forbidden except on sand or pebble bottoms and in designated areas, as are spearfishing and jet skis; climbingitaly warns that boats can't moor or anchor under the walls. If you plan to start a route from a boat, use a boat operator who knows the rules. I couldn't verify the extent of zone A or whether routes that end in the water, like Traverso Infinito, fall under swimming restrictions.
Rescue. The May 2025 rescue involved mountain rescue, the coastguard and a helicopter (City of Olbia). CNSAS's regional list gives 118 for Sardinia. In September 2026 two tourists still got lost in the scrub on the island and were brought out at night by firefighters and the coastguard (L'Unione Sarda).
Routes by level
YDS and V-grade conversions follow the Mountain Project international grade comparison chart and are approximate; "approx." marks grades the sources give without a/b/c (such as 4 or 5+). The original grade is the one that counts.
The only full route list is climbingitaly's (38 routes); Affora sa nato also has descriptions from Planetmountain and Trekking Tavolara. climbingitaly's grade spread: 2 routes at 5a, 5 at 5b, 5 at 5c, 10 at 6a, 2 at 6a+, 7 at 6b, 3 at 6b+, 3 projects, and nothing at 6c or above. None of these can be climbed while a ban is in force.
Beginner: up to 6a (YDS 5.10a and below)
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lasciami volare | 3, 4, 5a, 5a, 3, 5b, 4, 3, 3 | hardest 5.8 | 350 m, 9+ pitches | Tavolara | climbingitaly; Stenghel and Rizzi, 2014 |
| Cattedrale a Giovanna Maria | 5c | 5.9 | 120 m | Tavolara | climbingitaly: pitches 5a to 5c; 2013 |
| La luce del mondo | 6a, 5c, 5a, 4, 5a, 5a | hardest 5.10a | 350 m, 6 pitches then easy ground to Punta Cannone | Tavolara | climbingitaly; 2016 |
| Traverso Infinito | 5b | 5.8 | Sea traverse of 1,000 m+ | Coast | climbingitaly, Stenghel |
Intermediate: 6a+ to 6c+ (YDS 5.10b–5.11c)
| Route | Grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Sector | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Affora sa NATO | 5c, 6a+, 6a, 6b, 6a, 4, 6a | hardest 5.10c | 215 m, 7 pitches | Punta Lucca NW ridge | climbingitaly says fully equipped; Planetmountain dates the first ascent by Lecis and Sarti to the 1990s, Trekking Tavolara to the early 2000s |
| Via Arcangeli | 6a+, 6a, 5b, 6a, 5a, 5a | hardest 5.10b | 220 m, 6 pitches | Tavolara | climbingitaly; 2017 |
| Follia | 6a, 6b, 6a+, 5a, 5c, 6a+, 5a | hardest 5.10c | 210 m, 7 pitches | Spur left of the "La Cattedrale" cave | climbingitaly: very spaced bolts, bring cams 0.5–2; 4 rappels down, walking on to the summit strongly discouraged |
| I fiori di Bach | 6b, 6b, 6a+, 6b, 6a+, 6b+ | hardest 5.10d | 170 m, 6 pitches | Tavolara | climbingitaly; Oviglia and Sarti, 2016; two sets of cams |
| Infinito Blu | 5b, 5b, 5a, 6b+, 5a, 6a | hardest 5.10d | 240 m, 6 pitches | Tavolara | climbingitaly; belays with a single ring, some to build yourself |
Advanced: 7a to 7c+ (YDS 5.11d–5.13a)
None listed in the sources; none of climbingitaly's 38 routes is 6c or harder.
Expert: 8a and up (YDS 5.13b and up)
None listed in the sources.
Trad and multi-pitch (UIAA grades)
| Route | Original grade | YDS | Length / pitches | Wall | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alba infuocata | hardest V (pitches IV / V / V / II / II) | 5.6 | 260 m, 5 pitches | Tavolara | climbingitaly; Stenghel and Salvaterra, 2019 |
| Via gran diedro | hardest VI+ (pitches III / V / VI+ / VI / VI) | 5.10a | 250 m, 5 pitches | Tavolara | climbingitaly: bring pegs and a full set of cams; walk down the normal ferrata; 2017 |
| Nonno Fausto | hardest VI+ (pitches VI- / VI+ / V / V / II / III) | 5.10a | 300 m, 6 pitches | Tavolara | climbingitaly; Stenghel and Monte, 2019 |
Where to look things up
- City of Olbia: the first-hand source for the climbing ban and anything that replaces it; check for the latest order before you go.
- climbingitaly: Tavolara: pitches, pitch grades, first ascensionists and gear notes for all 38 routes, plus ferry and private boat contacts.
- Planetmountain: Affora sa nato: the only modern route with a detailed topo.
- AMP Tavolara: marine protected area zoning and boating rules.
- Tavolara Traghetti e Gite: ferry timetables, fares and charters.
- Guidebooks: Grades and route counts here come mainly from online databases; the guidebook is the authority.
- No printed guidebook currently covers Tavolara. Oviglia wrote in 2016 that Buscaini dropped it from Sardegna and that his own Pietra di Luna left it out; Bodo Habel once published a booklet, Faszination Tavolara, which climbingitaly describes as not very clear.
References
- Comune di Olbia: Divieto di attività di arrampicate a Tavolara (2025, in Italian)
- SassariToday: Perché non si potrà più salire sull'isola di Tavolara (2025, in Italian)
- Climbing Sardinia: Escursioni a Tavolara sospese per la stagione 2025 (in Italian)
- L'Unione Sarda: Tavolara off limits, due escursionisti spagnoli violano il divieto (2025, in Italian)
- La Nuova Sardegna: Nizzi in consiglio comunale, a Tavolara non si può salire (2025, in Italian)
- L'Unione Sarda: Tavolara, two tourists lost in the woods (2026)
- climbingitaly: Tavolara
- Planetmountain: Tavolara, climbing on the Sardinian island shrouded in myth (2016)
- Planetmountain: Affora sa nato, Punta Lucca
- Trekking Tavolara: Climbing
- Trekking Tavolara
- AMP Tavolara Punta Coda Cavallo: Zonizzazione (in Italian)
- AMP Tavolara Punta Coda Cavallo: Regolamenti (in Italian)
- Tavolara Traghetti e Gite
- CNSAS: Distress call